An Introduction to Japanese Sush Rice
Sushi Basics
In Japanese, the word “sushi” literally translates to “sour rice” & refers to an ancient preservation technique used to store fish before refrigeration was available. Typically, when sushi is mentioned, sliced raw fish—be it a fatty piece of tuna or salmon—comes to mind. And the vehicle for that fish, the rice, is often overlooked. This is the exact opposite of how a skilled sushi chef thinks, for whom making great sushi is largely about the rice. Regardless of how fresh & delicious the seafood is, the sushi will ultimately suffer if the rice isn’t up to par. Consider the simplicity of a piece of nigiri sushi, where there are often only four components (the rice, fish, soy sauce, & wasabi). There simply is no way to mask bad sushi rice.
While the recipe I share here is intended for the home cook, it is informed by my own professional experience cooking in some of the best sushi restaurants in the world, including three & a half years at Masa in New York City, & now Joji, an omakase restaurant in midtown helmed by George Ruan, a Masa veteran & alum. Some of the details in this recipe may seem a bit nitpicky—certainly more fastidious than many sushi rice recipes you’re likely to see online—but they’re details that I promise will make a difference. There’s no question that it can take years of focused study & practice to become an expert in the art of sushi & rice, but even in novice hands, these rice-making techniques are worth applying for best results.
Choosing Rice for Sushi
For sushi, you’ll want to use Japanese short-grain rice, such as koshihikari, one of the most well-known & highly regarded varieties. There are many other artisanal varieties of short-grain sushi rice available, but koshihikari is widely available while still being a very high-quality product. It’s important to use short-grain rice because its higher levels of more glutinous amylopectin starch (as opposed to the dryer-cooking amylose found in fluffy varieties like jasmine & basmati) allow the rice to stick together, & its small, plump shape allows it to absorb liquid much better than thinner medium & long-grain rice varieties.
The Importance Water
Though often overlooked, the water in which the rice is cooked is important. In rice cookery, there are only two ingredients—rice & water—& it’s worth taking the time to make sure both are good quality. In my own time as a cook in sushi restaurants, I know of at least one elite sushi chef in New York City who only uses Evian water to cook his rice, due to the water’s exacting nature of a 7.2 pH level & natural minerality. I’m not saying that you need to get all Bill Nye & measure the pH of your water to make sushi rice at home, but I do recommend that you cook with water that’s filtered, drinkable, & tastes good. When in doubt, just use your favourite brand of bottled water or filtered tap water.
Sushi Rice Seasoning Vinegar
Once the rice is cooked, it needs to be seasoned with seasoned vinegar—sushi, whether nigiri, maki, or hand rolls, is not made with plain rice. There are as many sushi vinegar recipes as there are sushi restaurants, & how it’s made ultimately depends on that particular chef’s preferences; it’s not uncommon for some sushi chefs to treat their seasoned vinegar recipe as a closely guarded secret. The essential ingredients of sushi vinegar are salt, sugar, & kombu, a dried kelp that contains natural salinity & minerality from the ocean. The salt & sugar are there to balance the sharpness & acidity of the vinegar while the kombu provides an umami undertone that adds an element of savory flavour. How each recipe tends to differ from the next lies in the specific ratios of those ingredients, & the exact type & brand of each.
Some sushi vinegar recipes call for traditional light rice vinegar, but there are other types of vinegar one can use, such as darker red ones called akazu. Made with sake lees, akazu carries a premium price tag & adds a different flavour profile & darker pigment for the rice. The recipe I’m sharing here uses light rice vinegar, which produces a versatile sushi rice that can be used in any application. Akazu, on the other hand, is more particular & especially useful when trying to accentuate certain types of fish. For example, if a restaurant serves a lot of hikarimono (silver-skinned fish like mackerel), akazu-seasoned rice may be used just for those types of fish. Of course, these are just generalizations & the specific choices will depend on the sushi chef, but for most home cooks, I think basic light rice vinegar is the way to go.
How to Season Sushi Rice
When mixing & seasoning sushi rice, it’s important to be as quick & efficient as possible. Time & temperature are key, as the rice is at peak absorption levels when it’s freshly out of the cooking vessel & still hot. As soon as the vinegar hits the rice, your work begins. The goal is to incorporate the seasoned vinegar into the rice as evenly as possible without overworking or damaging the rice. The specific technique relies on a rice paddle or wooden spoon to deftly cut through & turn the rice, not mash it into submission. Your grip should be firm, but the strokes gentle & intentional, & your eyes should be zeroing in on any clumps of rice that need to be broken up, while avoiding any already-mixed portions so as not to overwork them. This will result in rice that is evenly seasoned, has no clumps or broken grains, & is airy & light, versus starchy, damp, & heavy.
In the end, this is the same process I use to make sushi rice at work, just with more easily accessible, though still good-quality, ingredients. In time, you may might want to experiment with ingredients like akazu vinegar, johakuto (a fine, slightly moist white sugar), or yakishio (roasted sea salt), but you don’t necessarily need the most premium products as long as you’ve got the technique down.
Ingredients:
½ cup (120ml) unseasoned rice vinegar
¼ cup plus 1 ½ tbsp (73g) granulated sugar
2 tbsp (18g) Diamond Crystal kosher salt; if using table salt, use half as much by volume or the same weight
One 2-inch-square piece of kombu
1 cup (195gms) short-grain sushi rice
1 cup (235mls) filtered water
For the Sushi Vinegar: In a stainless-steel bowl, whisk together the rice vinegar, salt, & sugar. Pour the solution into a nonreactive, airtight container & add kombu, making sure it is fully submerged. Allow kombu to infuse at room temperature for 24 hours.
For the Rice: The next day, place rice in a large bowl & add enough cold water to cover. Using your fingers, gently massage & swish the grains in a circular motion until the water turns cloudy, about 30 seconds. Drain through a fine-mesh strainer, then refill the bowl with fresh water & repeat rinsing & draining until the water runs clear.
Transfer rice to the fine-mesh strainer & set it atop the bowl used to rinse the rice. Run the rice under cold water for 2 to 3 minutes, allowing the bowl to overflow & spill over. Lightly agitate the rice as the water continues to run, which should help to filter out any small shards of broken rice grains (these can make sushi rice sticky/gummy if not removed, even if the rice is otherwise correctly cooked).
Turn off the water & empty the bowl. Allow the rice to drain & air dry in the strainer for 10 minutes with the empty bowl beneath to catch any excess water.
If using a rice cooker, add the rice & filtered water to the pot of a rice cooker &, using your fingers, evenly disperse the grains. If your cooker has a “sushi rice” setting, set it to that & cook. Otherwise use the standard white rice setting.
If cooking rice on the stove-top, place the rice & filtered water in a 2- to 3-quart heavy-bottomed pot & give the pot a good shake to level the rice. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, lower to a gentle simmer, then cover & cook until water is fully absorbed, about 12 minutes. Remove from the heat & allow the rice to steam, covered, for an additional 10 minutes.
Measure 3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon (50ml) sushi vinegar. Transfer hot rice into a wide, non-reactive container, such as a traditional wooden sushi oke/hangiri or 9-by 13-inch glass or ceramic baking dish; make sure not to transfer any crusty rice from the cooking pot (you can save this rice to be eaten separately, but it will ruin the sushi rice if not removed).
Hold a rice paddle or wooden spoon at a 45º angle above the rice. Slowly add the measured amount of sushi vinegar directly onto the paddle while waving the paddle back & forth to scatter & evenly distribute the vinegar onto the hot rice. Using long, sweeping strokes, smooth the rice into a flat even layer, gently breaking up any clumps as you go.
Once the rice is flat & all of the large clumps have been separated, push the rice into a pile on the side of the container nearest to you. Scoop the rice in small clusters, about the size of your paddle, & flip them towards the empty side of the container. Using swift cutting motions, gently break up the flipped clusters with your paddle as you go, specifically looking for small rice clumps. (These smaller clumps are unseasoned; separating & flipping the rice ensures each grain gets seasoned.) Continue this process until all of the grains have been separated & the rice is once again in a flat, even layer.
Rest the rice for 4 minutes. Using the paddle, flip the rice from top to bottom in small portions until all the rice has been flipped. Let rest an additional 2 minutes. This step ensures the seasoned vinegar is evenly distributed at all depths of the rice.
The rice is now ready to use. If you used a rice cooker, clean the pot, line it with a clean damp towel, transfer the rice back into it, & set the rice cooker to the “warm” setting. Otherwise, cover the rice in the pot with a damp towel to prevent it from cooling too quickly & drying out. Use sushi rice as desired, preferably while still slightly warm.
An Introduction to Italian Risotto
Risotto Basics
Roasting, cooking, & the Italian concept of ‘mantecatura’ are the essential phases of making a risotto, the right way. The below discusses
Pasta & risotto are the two first courses par excellence of Italian cuisine, both very versatile with many different ingredients. The main difference is that the second is a less popular dish, certainly more widespread in the culinary tradition of northern Italy & it’s a little more difficult to cook – because of its various stages of cooking that require attention & patience. That’s why we want to review the fundamental steps for a risotto with you, so you can make it the right way as we do in the Bel Paese.
Which rice works best for risotto?
Let’s start with the selection of rice. There are many varieties & some are more suitable than others for preparing risotto. Depending on the shape of the grain & the way it is cooked, the rice is divided into common, semi-fine, fine & superfine. The last two sets are characterized by larger & tapered grains (& a better hold in cooking) because they cook more slowly & remain more al dente, so they are ideal for cooking risotto. Arborio & Carnaroli rice are considered the best varieties. Then there’s also Vialone Nano, a good alternative to Carnaroli. & Volano, Roma, Baldo, Sant’Andrea…
How to toast the rice for risotto
The first fundamental step in making risotto is toasting the rice, which serves to make the grain more compact to prevent it from breaking as it cooks. Heat a large saucepan & pour in all the rice. Continue stirring the rice with a wooden spoon & toast it for a few minutes. You’ll know it’s ready by touching it with your fingers & smelling it; the rice must be very hot & give off the scent of the grain. You can also toast the risotto with another fat like a sautéed onion (or shallot) & butter (or oil). Once toasted, add a glass of wine & let it evaporate for extra flavour.
How to make risotto: cooking & ‘mantecatura’
After toasting it, cover the rice completely with simmering, hot broth – vegetable or meat broth, depending on the risotto you wish to prepare. Cook over medium heat. Keep the rice consistently covered with hot broth to ensure even cooking. Add a ladle at a time continuously to keep it moist as the rice absorbs the broth.
Cooking times vary according to the type of rice, but generally, it will take at least 15-18 minutes. Once ready, the rice should be removed from the heat & stirred with a knob of cold butter & parmesan cheese. This is considered the ‘mantecatura’ phase, an Italian word referring to the process of ‘creaming’ butter & cheese with the risotto in this case.
How to prepare risotto ahead of time
Generally, risotto isn’t prepared ahead of time – because the best risotto is served fresh – but if you want to make it in advance, proceed as explained above, but stop cooking a few minutes before (when the grain is chewy but still crunchy in the middle). Spread the rice in a container with an airtight seal to let it cool & transfer covered to the fridge. When it’s time to serve the risotto, put it back in the saucepan, add the stock, & turn heat over medium heat. Add any other ingredients & stir continuously. Just a few minutes & the rice will be ready. Stir & serve.
4 classic risotto recipes
Risotto alla Milanese
The Italian risotto par excellence is risotto alla milanese. To prepare it, finely chop the onion & sauté in a pan over medium heat with butter. Add osso buco (ox bone marrow). Toast the rice on high heat for one minute, stirring continuously. Add white wine & let it evaporate. Pour in the hot broth a little at a time, stirring occasionally. Cook the rice for about 16-20 minutes, according to the chosen rice, adding two sachets of saffron halfway through cooking. Salt if necessary. Remove the pan from the heat, add cold butter & grated parmesan cheese. Stir until the risotto is soft & creamy. Let rest for a minute with the lid on & serve.
Sausage risotto
One of the most delicious risotto recipes is sausage risotto. Make it sautéing a knob of butter with chopped shallot. Add the sausage in pieces (casings removed), & brown, stirring with a wooden spoon. Add the rice & toast it for a few minutes. Add red wine. Cook the rice, adding hot broth as it is absorbed. Once cooked, remove from heat & stir in more butter & parmesan cheese.
Risotto alla Monzese
Risotto alla monzese is made like sausage risotto, but with this recipe, we use luganega sausage, a typical sausage from Monza & Brianza. It’s a fresh sausage that looks like a long & narrow roll. It is light in colour & its taste is sweet; it’s made with pork, Grana Padano cheese, marsala, meat broth, & spices.
Risotto alla parmigiana
Another very tasty, yet simple risotto that everyone loves is risotto alla parmigiana. To make it, prepare a sauté with a little oil & chopped onion. Add the rice, brown it over high heat, & add some red wine. Continue cooking, stirring often & adding some hot broth, little by little. After about 12 minutes, when the risotto is still al dente, add some diced scamorza cheese & let it melt. Turn off heat, add salt & stir-fry with a knob of butter, minced pepper & plenty of grated parmesan cheese. Let the risotto rest for a couple of minutes & serve.
Risotto alla Milanese
The general rule for cooking risotto is a liquid to rice ratio of 3:1. This means for every cup of rice; you would use 3 cups of liquid.
To convert this to kilograms, we need to know that 1 cup of Arborio rice is approximately 200 grams. So, for 1 kg of Arborio rice (which is equivalent to 5 cups), you would need 15 cups of liquid.
Please note that these are general guidelines & the exact amount can vary depending on the specific recipe & personal preference. Always taste your risotto to ensure it’s cooked to your liking.
Ingredients:
400gms, preferably carnaroli or vialone nano
950mls homemade chicken or vegetable stock
3 tbsp (45ml) extra-virgin olive oil
1 small yellow onion, minced
225mls dry white wine
2 generous pinches saffron
Kosher salt
2 tbsp (30g) unsalted butter
40gms freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
115mls heavy cream, whipped to stiff peaks
Method:
Combine rice & stock in a large bowl. Agitate rice with fingers or a whisk to release starch. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer set over a 2-quart liquid cup measure or large bowl. Allow to drain well, shaking rice of excess liquid.
Heat oil in a heavy 12-inch sauté pan over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add rice & cook, stirring & tossing frequently, until all liquid has evaporated & rice sizzles & takes on a nutty aroma, about 5 minutes. Add onion & continue to cook, stirring frequently, until aromatic, about 1 minute. Add wine & cook, stirring occasionally, until the pan is nearly dry, about 3 minutes.
Give reserved stock a good stir & pour all but 1 cup over rice. Add saffron & a large pinch of salt, increase heat to high, & bring to a simmer. Stir rice once, making sure no stray grains are clinging to side of pan above the liquid. Cover & reduce heat to lowest possible setting.
Cook rice for 10 minutes undisturbed. Stir once, shake pan gently to redistribute rice, cover, & continue cooking until liquid is mostly absorbed & rice is tender with just a faint bite, about 5 minutes longer.
Remove lid. Stir remaining 1 cup of stock to distribute starch, then stir into rice. Increase heat to high, add butter, & cook, stirring & shaking rice constantly until butter has melted & rice is thick & creamy; add more stock or water as necessary if risotto becomes too dry. Off heat, add cheese & stir rapidly to thoroughly incorporate. Fold in heavy cream, if using. Season with salt. Serve immediately on hot plates, passing more cheese at the table.
Risotto Cacio E Pepe
Ingredients:
500 g of Carnaroli rice
100gms pecorino Romani
100gms Parmigiano Reggiano
80gms butter
50mls extra virgin olive oil
1.5 litres chicken stock
salt & pepper to taste
Method:
To prepare the cacio e pepe risotto, place the rice in a saucepan. Toast for a few minutes over medium to low heat continually tossing to avoid burning
Heat the stock to a low simmer & add 200mls to the toasted Carnaroli rice until the first addition has completely been absorbed.
Continue to cook the rice for about 15 minutes, adding the broth in increments of 200mls as the Carnaroli rice absorbs each addition of the chicken stock ensuring that all grains are covered in a thin layer of stock as you create a creamy texture. Season with salt & remove from heat; the risotto will continue to cook with the residual heat of the dish.
Stir in the grated parmesan & pecorino, the butter, a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil & freshly ground pepper.
Garnish with freshly ground black peppercorns & serve cacio e pepe risotto immediately
The general rule for cooking risotto is a liquid to rice ratio of 3:1. This means for every cup of rice; you would use 3 cups of liquid.
To convert this to kilograms, we need to know that 1 cup of Arborio rice is approximately 200 grams. So, for 1 kg of Arborio rice (which is equivalent to 5 cups), you would need 15 cups of liquid.
Please note that these are general guidelines & the exact amount can vary depending on the specific recipe & personal preference. Rice absorption can also be influenced by growing conditions
Saffron Risotto
Ingredients:
8ogms carnaroli rice
10gms chopped shallots
10gms extra-virgin olive oil, 300mls orange water
10gms orange zest, 300 g light fish broth
1 litre vegetable stock
5mls fresh lemon juice
20mls fresh orange juice
3gms chopped fennel
10gms butter
10gms Parmigiano
20gms extra-virgin olive oil
40gms creamy cherry tomato sauce
2 scallops
1gm thyme
½gm saffron pistils
Method:
Toast the rice with shallots & oil; blend with the wine; add broth; add saffron; add salt.
2. Continue cooking with orange broth to cover the rice.
3. At the end, add lemon juice & orange juice.
4. Cream with parmesan, butter & oil.
5. Let rest for 2 minutes. Add fennel.
6. Season the scallops with thyme & oil.
7. Sear the scallops & place them in the centre of the dish
Mushroom & Chicken Risotto
Ingredients:
2 tbsp butter
225gms mushrooms, thinly sliced
400gms boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut into ½-inch pieces
1 tsp kosher salt, divided
¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper
1.250gms homemade stock, plus more if needed
1 tsp vegetable oil
125gms chopped onion
375gms arborio rice
175gms dry white wine
175gms grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for serving
2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley
Method:
In a large pot, heat the butter over moderate heat. Add the mushrooms. Cook, stirring frequently, until the mushrooms are browned, about 5 minutes.
Add the chicken, ¼ teaspoon salt, & the pepper. Cook until the chicken is just done, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the mixture from the pan. In a medium saucepan, bring the broth to a simmer.
In the large pot, heat the oil over moderately low heat. Add the onion & cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the rice & stir until it begins to turn opaque, about 2 minutes.
Add the wine & the remaining ¾ teaspoon salt to the rice. Cook, stirring frequently, until all of the wine has been absorbed.
Add about ½ cup of the simmering broth & cook, stirring frequently, until it has been absorbed. The rice & broth should bubble gently; adjust the heat as needed.
Continue cooking the rice, adding broth ½ cup at a time & allowing the rice to absorb it before adding the next ½ cup. Cook the rice in this way until tender, 25 to 30 minutes in all. The broth that hasn’t been absorbed should be thickened by the starch from the rice. You may not need to use all the liquid, or you may need more broth or some water.
Stir in the chicken & mushrooms, the Parmesan, & the parsley & heat through. Serve the risotto with additional Parmesan.
Mushroom Risotto
Ingredients:
Vegetable Stock:
1 to 2 onions
2 to 3 carrots
3 to 4 celery stalks
4 to 5 sprigs fresh thyme
1 bay leaf
1 small bunch fresh parsley
1 tsp black peppercorns
1 whole leeks,
2 only tomatoes
200gms mushrooms including stems
Mushroom Risotto:
450gms mixed mushrooms
2 garlic cloves
1 shallot
1.5 litres vegetable broth
400gms Carnaroli or Arborio rice
50gms unsalted butter
100mls dry white wine
120gms grated Parmigiano cheese
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
cracked black peppercorns
salt, pinch
fresh parsley, chopped
Prepare a vegetable stock: Make a bouquet garni by tying the thyme, peppercorns, clove, parsley sprigs, & bay leaf into a piece of cheesecloth. Set aside.
Onions, carrots, & celery give stock a great flavour, base & you can round these out with any of the other vegetables listed above. You can also make stock using any number of vegetables that you happen to have on-hand, but it’s good to have a roughly equal portion of each so the resulting stock will have a balanced flavour.
Coarsely chop all the vegetables. Wash any visible dirt off the vegetables; no need to peel; rather just add to a large Dutch oven & cover with cold water.
Less water means that your stock will be more concentrated; more water makes a lighter-flavoured stock. Set the pot over medium-high heat & bring it to just under a boil. Turn heat to low & slowly simmer for an hour, it isn’t an exact science, but one hour is generally sufficient time to infuse the aromatics of the bouquet garni & vegetables with the water.
Strain & store. Take the pot off the heat & remove all the vegetables with a slotted spoon. Set a colander or strainer over a big bowl & line it with cheesecloth or coffee filters. Pour the stock through. If not using immediately, divide the stock into storage containers, cool completely, & then freeze.
Prepare the Mushroom Risotto
Clean your mushrooms thoroughly under cold running water & dry immediately. Do not let the mushrooms sit in a water bath to clean, they will absorb the water & lose much of their flavour.
Thinly slice the mushrooms & sauté the garlic. After a few minutes, add the sliced mushrooms.
If you like to use some Porcini, add them after cooking the other mushrooms for about three minutes.
Cook the mushrooms for about 5 minutes or so over medium heat until they are soft & the released water has evaporated.
When cooked, add salt, pepper, & parsley. Stir & set aside.
Finely slice the shallot & sauté in the butter with a drizzle of olive oil.
Add the rice & stir gently so that it toasts evenly for a couple of minutes.
Add the white wine & let it evaporate over high heat.
Add sufficient hot vegetable stock to cover all the rice &, stirring constantly, continue cooking over medium heat.
Halfway through cooking the rice (about 8 minutes), add the cooked mushrooms.
Stir & continue cooking the risotto. Add more hot stock if necessary, as the rice absorbs it.
Carnaroli or Arborio rice have a cooking time of 14 to 18 minutes.
When the mushroom risotto is ready, remove the pan from the heat & add chopped parsley, a knob of butter & grated Parmigiano cheese & combine.
An Introduction to Spanish Paella
Paella Basics
Most visitors to Spain think that paella is a mix of seafood & meat. While this version does exist, there are many regional variations of paella, & they feature only a few key ingredients, as the rice itself is supposed to be the star of the show. You can read more about the history of paella if you’re curious.
Contrary to popular belief, the traditional version of paella from Valencia doesn’t contain seafood! While the most well-known versions of the dish include shrimp & mussels, traditional paella valenciana is made with chicken & rabbit (& often snails), & is spiced with sweet paprika & a few strands of golden saffron.
A mark of a good paella is the socarrat. The slow, undisturbed simmering of the rice in broth means that the bottom layer will start to caramelize, & it’s this crispy base of rice that distinguishes an authentic paella.
Rice: It’s best to use a short to medium grain, round rice, such as Bomba, Calasparra, or Senia. These rice varieties absorb three times as much liquid as regular rice without becoming mushy. If you are planning on making a traditional paella, A Spanish rice varietal is highly recommended due to it absorption ratio of water; however, if you are unable to source, arborio is suitable.
Meat: The four most common proteins in paella valenciana are chicken, pork, rabbit, & snails. Feel free to experiment with a mixture of these based on your preferences/availability. (I prefer to use a mixture of chicken & pork ribs.) Have your butcher chop the chicken into small pieces, as this will allow caramelization to occur in the paella, improving the flavour.
Water: A tradition paella Valenciana is never made from a prepared stock, water is the preferred & traditional moistening liquid. Using water instead of a more flavoursome chicken stock likely reflects the dish’s humble origins & the practicality of its preparation. The flavour of the dish comes from the fresh, local ingredients & the method of cooking, rather than from a pre-prepared stock. This approach allows the individual flavours of the ingredients to shine through, creating a harmonious blend that is characteristic of Paella Valenciana.
Olive Oil: This recipe requires a lot of oil. The excess oil in the sofrito is what helps form the all-important socarrat (that crispy bottom layer of the paella).
Spices: Use Spanish paprika (pimentón) if possible. I like pimentón de Murcia, which isn’t as smoky as pimentón de la Vera, but both work well. If you can get some, I’d also recommend using saffron in this dish for authentic colour & flavour, but you can omit it if needed.
Garlic: Debate continues as to whether garlic is an appropriate addition to a paella. Traditionalist will argue that it has no place in this dish while other are adamant it adds a distinctive flavour & aroma. Tradition can get in the
Tomato: Tomato deglazes the pan to increase flavour, & helps make the sofrito. Traditionally, freshly grated tomato is used, but you can substitute with passata or good quality canned crushed tomatoes.
Green Beans: In Valencia, they use a flat green bean called judía ferradura. If you can’t find these, use good quality fresh string beans or frozen ones if you’re in a pinch.
Butter Beans: In Valencia, the local variety of Lima bean is called garrofó. Be sure to pre-cook dried beans before adding to the paella, or use a good quality canned variety.
Rice: If you can’t find Spanish rice varieties where you live, you can use Arborio, although the results will be different.
Saffron: Traditional Spanish paella recipe needs saffron; the colour & subtle flavour this expensive spice provides are unique. If you don’t have any on h&, add a pinch of turmeric for colour if desired.
Salt: This recipe calls for a good amount of salt, but it will amplify the flavours in the dish & make the most delicious paella you’ve ever tried!
Place a paella (large pan for making paella) or a large skillet on medium-high heat & add the olive oil.
Sprinkle all the salt in a circle towards the edge of the pan to keep the oil from splattering excessively, then add all of the meat (the chicken & either rabbit or pork ribs).
Brown the meat on all sides over the next 20 minutes, turning it every 3-5 minutes. All of the bits that stick to the pan here will come off when you add the tomato & water in the future, & they’ll really bring a deep flavour to the cooking liquid.
Push the browned meat to the edges of the pan, & allow the olive oil to pool in the centre.
Add the green beans & sauté for about 3 minutes.
Push the beans to the edges & add the garlic. Sauté for about 30 seconds, or until fragrant.
Add the butter beans. (If you’re using jarred butter beans, be careful not to break them.) Gently toss the beans in the oil & garlic, then let them brown for about 30 seconds per side.
Add the paprika & gently sauté for about 1 minute.
Add the crushed tomatoes & stir everything together. The tomato should start to deglaze the pan (loosen all of the stuck bits below). Use a wooden spoon to scrape off all these flavourful bits & incorporate them into the dish.
Paella Valenciana
Ingredients:
⅓ cup extra virgin olive oil preferably Spanish
4 only chicken thighs, cut into 4 each thigh
450gms pork ribs chopped into small pieces
4 garlic cloves minced
⅓ cup fresh tomatoes grated (about 2 tomatoes)
250gms flat green beans cut into 2-inch pieces
200gms butter beans (or garrafón) fresh or canned
2 tsp sweet Spanish paprika preferably unsmoked
1 pinch saffron about 10 threads
425gms Spanish short-grain round rice such as Senia, Bomba, or Calasparra
1.5 tbsp salt
1.275 litres chicken stock
Method:
Heat a 22-inch paella (large shallow pan) or a large skillet over medium-high heat & add the olive oil. Sprinkle the salt in a circle around the edge of the pan to minimize splattering.
Add the chicken & pork ribs or rabbit (if using) & cook until golden brown, about 20 minutes. Turn the meat every 5 minutes. The browned, caramelized bits that stick to the pan will give lots of flavour to the paella.
Push the meat away from the centre of the pan, then add the green beans & cook for about 3 minutes.
Move the beans to the edge & add the garlic. Sauté for about 30 seconds, making sure not to burn.
Add the butter beans & sauté for about one minute. Stir gently to avoid breaking the beans.
Add the paprika & sauté for about 30 seconds, then add the tomato & saffron. Gently stir together, taking care not to break the beans.
Add 5 cups (1,200 ml) of water, then use a toothpick to check the water level. Save the toothpick for later, then add the other 4 cups (960 ml) of water. Bring to a rapid boil for about 10 minutes, & then lower to a simmer for another 15-20 minutes.
Check the water level. There should be 5 cups of liquid in the pan, which is what you need to make rice for 4 people. Check by using your toothpick; the water line should match the same mark as before. If it’s higher, keep cooking; if it’s lower, add a bit more water. (Paella rice varieties have about a 2.5-3:1 water/rice ratio.)
Add the rice to the pan, & stir minimally until the rice is submerged in the liquid & evenly spread.
Simmer for 10 minutes, then reduce the heat & gently simmer until the broth is gone, about 8-10 minutes (depending on the variety of the rice).
At the end of the cooking time, you should hear a faint ticking or cracking coming from the bottom layer of rice. (This means that the rice is caramelizing on the bottom, making the socarrat.) Turn up the heat for about 30 seconds to encourage the socorrat to form, & stop immediately if you start to smell burning.
Remove the paella from the heat. Cover with a towel or newspapers & let it rest for 5 minutes, then serve immediately.
Seafood Paella (Receta de Paella de Marisco)
Ingredients:
1.5 litre clam or seafood stock
olive oil
300 mls dry white wine
2 tsp saffron threads
750gms firm-fleshed fish, grouper or snapper, cut into bite-sized pieces
sea salt
2 tbsp parsley, minced
8 cloves garlic, minced
1 tbsp fresh thyme
2 tsp sweet smoked paprika
1 medium onion, diced
6 spring onions, diced
1 red capsicum, cored, seeded & diced
1 large tomato, finely diced
500gms Bomba paella rice
2 dozen ½ shell mussels
1 dozen small clams
12 large King or Tiger Prawns in shells
Lemon wedges for garnish
Method:
Heat broth, wine & saffron together in a large pot & keep warm. Ensure that both the fish & prawns are reasonably dry, season with salt & let sit 10 minutes. Use a mortar & pestle to mash parsley, garlic, thyme & ⅛ tsp salt into a paste; stir in paprika. Add water if necessary to form a paste.
Heat 6 tbsp of the olive oil in a 15″ paella pan over medium high heat & quickly brown the fish on both sides, remove from heat & reserve. Reduce heat to medium, add remaining 2 tbsp of oil, onion, spring onions & capsicums to paella pan, & cook, stirring occasionally until the vegetables have sweated & are slightly softened. Raise heat slightly, add tomato with its juices & cook, stirring occasionally, until you have a sauce like consistency & all ingredients are fully incorporated.
Pour in the warm broth & wine & bring to a boil. Sprinkle the rice evenly across the pan. Boil for 3 minutes, stirring rice & rotating pan occasionally. Stir in parsley paste. Add all reserved fish (but not the prawns). Gently stir the fish to coat in the sauce. Taste for salt. It is important not to stir after this point. Lower the heat & allow to simmer until mixture is no longer soupy but enough liquid remains to continue cooking the rice (about 10 min.) Add extra liquid if necessary.
Tuck shrimp, clams & mussels into the rice, placing edges of mussel & clam shells so they open facing up. Cook, uncovered, for 15-20 minutes or until rice is almost cooked. Turn the prawns over as they start to colour. Remove pan from the heat & cover with foil. Let sit 10 minutes. Discard any clams that did not open. Garnish with lemon wedges & serve with aioli & a rustic style baguette or ciabatta.
An Introduction to Asian Style Rice
Nasi Goreng
Nasi Goreng, which translates to “fried rice” in both the Indonesian & Malay languages, can be traced back to the Chinese diaspora in the Indonesian archipelago.
Ingredients:
For the Spice Paste:
1 large fresh green chillies or 1 tsp sambal oelek
½ tsp terasi (Indonesian shrimp paste)
2 garlic cloves, peeled
pinch nutmeg
¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper
½ tsp ground turmeric
2 shallots, peeled
25gm unsalted peanuts
1 tsp salt
3 birds’-eye chillies, seeds removed
1 tbsp palm sugar
1-2 tbsp vegetable oil, or more if necessary
For the Nasi Goreng:
600gms cooked jasmine rice
30mls neutral oil, such as canola
30ml kecap manis
2 tsp soy sauce
kosher salt
ground white pepper
To Serve:
2 large fried eggs
sliced cucumbers (optional)
sliced tomatoes (optional)
fried shallots (optional
Method:
For the Spice Paste: Add half the shallots to a mortar & grind with pestle until a coarse purée forms. Add remaining shallots, followed by garlic, chili, & terasi, grinding with pestle until each ingredient is mostly incorporated before adding the next. The final paste should resemble thick oatmeal in texture. Alternatively, combine all spice paste ingredients in a small food processor & process until they form a paste.
For the Nasi Goreng: If using day-old rice, transfer rice to a bowl & break rice up with your hands into individual grains.
Heat oil in a large wok or skillet over high heat until shimmering. Add spice paste & cook, stirring constantly & scraping bottom of wok or pan to prevent paste from burning, until a pungent smell permeates your kitchen & paste turns a few shades darker, 2 to 3 minutes. Reduce heat to medium at any time if paste appears to be browning too quickly.
Add rice to wok & stir to coat with spice paste. Add kecap manis & soy sauce. Stir & cook until rice is evenly coloured & hot throughout. Season with salt & white pepper.
Divide rice between two plates & top each plate of rice with a fried egg. Garnish with cucumber & tomato slices & shower with fried shallots, if you like. Serve immediately with kecap manis alongside for drizzling.
Kecap Manis
Ingredients:
250mls soy sauce
300gms palm/coconut sugar or brown sugar
1 tbsp molasses
3 cloves garlic, peeled & halved
2 inch piece fresh ginger, peeled & quartered
2 whole star anise
2 whole cloves
Place all ingredients in a small saucepan & bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low & simmer uncovered, stirring frequently, until the sugar is dissolved & sauce begins to thicken, 10-15 minutes. The sauce will continue to thicken as it cools
Turn off the heat, remove the star anise, garlic & ginger & let cool completely.
Palm/coconut sugar has a rich caramel/butterscotch flavour whereas brown sugar yields a sweeter-tasting sauce
Sambal Oelek (spice paste)
Ingredients:
450gms red chiles, red jalapeños, fresnos, or red serrano’s
2 tbsp rice vinegar
1 tbsp salt
Method:
Place chiles, vinegar, & salt in a food processor & pulse until chilles are finely chopped & form a paste, stopping to scrape down sides of bowl as necessary, Transfer to an airtight container & store in refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.
Terasi (Indonesian shrimp paste)
Ingredients:
½ tbsp vegetable oil
1 tbsp dried shrimp paste Terasi, or Belacan
6 cloves garlic
½ tsp salt
1 tsp sugar use shaved palm sugar or brown sugar
12 bird’s eye chilies stems removed
1 tbsp fresh lime or lemon juice
Method:
Heat the oil in a small pan to medium heat & add the dried shrimp paste. Cook the paste for 45 seconds to 1 minute, mashing it down completely, until it becomes vary fragrant. Cool & set aside.
Add the cooked shrimp paste to a mortar or a small food processor, along with the garlic, salt, sugar & bird’s eye peppers. Grind or process until smooth.
Stir in the lime juice or lemon juice & use immediately.
Nasi Uduk Bayam
Nasi uduk is one of numerous Indonesian rice-based dishes. The rice in nasi uduk is cooked in coconut milk together with lemongrass, cloves, pandan leaves, & cinnamon. The process results in wonderfully fluffy, fragrant rice, & right before it is served, each portion is usually topped with fried shallots.
It is a dish rarely eaten on its own, but rather served with a variety of side dishes & condiments. Most commonly a variety of stewed & fried meat, rice noodles, eggs, tempeh, tofu, fried anchovies, & rice crackers are served alongside rice.
Regular sambal, the spicy Indonesian hot sauce, or peanut sambal are the most common condiments served with nasi uduk. However, it is usually the customer who can choose the additional ingredients & create their version of the meal.
Ingredients:
360gms rice, washed & drained
2 lemongrass (Indonesian: sereh), bruised & knotted
2 pandan leaves (Indonesian: daun pandan), knotted
4 bay leaves (Indonesian: daun salam)
2 slices of ginger (Indonesian: jahe)
2 slices of galangal (Indonesian: lengkuas)
1 tsp coriander powder
¼ tsp salt
100mls thick coconut milk (Indonesian: santan kental)
100gms spinach, washed & drained
700mls water
Method:
Place rice, lemongrass, pandan leaves, bay leaves, ginger, galangal, coriander powder, & salt into rice cooker pot.
With a blender, puree spinach & water until smooth. Make sure that the total pureed volume comes to 650 ml, add more water if it is not enough.
Pour coconut milk & spinach pureed (650 ml of pureed spinach) into the rice cooker pot. Stir so everything is mixed together.
Place the pot into rice cooker, then cook until ready. Let rest for 10 minutes before opening the lid.
Remove the lemongrass, pandan, bay leaves, ginger, & galangal. Stir with a rice cooker paddle. Serve with some fried egg, fried chicken, fried tempeh, & sambal of your choice.
Nasi Kuning
Ingredients:
1 cup medium grain rice, uncooked
1 lemongrass stalk
2 garlic cloves, smashed
3 tbsp turmeric juice
2 cups coconut milk
2 tsp salt
Method:
Add all the ingredients to your rice cooker & stir to combine.
Press the “play button” & cook following your rice cooker instructions.
An Introduction to Indian Biryani
The Cultural Significance & Regional Variations of Biryani
Biryani, a flavourful & aromatic rice dish, has a long & fascinating history that spans across various regions & cultures. Originating from South Asia, Biryani is a mixed rice dish made with rice, some type of meat, & spices. The name ‘biryani’ comes from the Persian word ‘Birian’, which means “fried before cooking”.
Biryani has many regional variations, each with its unique Flavors & ingredients. For instance, Ambur Biryani from Tamil Nadu is known for its use of seeraga samba rice & a light, subtle use of spices. In contrast, Hyderabadi Biryani from Andhra Pradesh is famous for its use of saffron & other aromatic spices. Each region has its own unique take on this beloved dish, incorporating local ingredients & cooking techniques.
Biryani holds a special place in the cultural fabric of India & many other countries where it is enjoyed. It is often associated with celebrations, festivals, & special occasions, symbolizing abundance, hospitality, & togetherness. In Indian weddings, Biryani is a staple dish that is served to guests, showcasing the host’s generosity & culinary prowess. It is also a beloved dish during religious festivals such as Eid, where families come together to share the joy & Flavors of Biryani.
In conclusion, Biryani is more than just a dish; it’s a cultural phenomenon that unites people across India & beyond. Whether it’s a family gathering, a festive celebration, or a simple meal, Biryani is always a favourite. Each region has its own unique take on this beloved dish, incorporating local ingredients & cooking techniques. Biryani has the power to bring people together, transcending cultural boundaries & fostering a sense of unity & community. It is a testament to the rich culinary heritage of the regions it represents & continues to be a beloved dish across the globe.
About this Basmati rice recipe:
This is a recipe that is certain to achieve brilliant results. I’ve made rice using this recipe thousands of times and it turns out perfectly each and every time. Now I would like to show you how I do it.
All you need to do is wash the rice grains well and then let it steam.
How to achieve perfect Basmati rice:
Always use the best quality basmati rice you can get your hands on.
Once you’ve sourced the best quality Basmati rice you can get your hands on, you need to wash it in several changes of water.
When you first wash it, the water will turn milky white from the starch. That is what you are removing when you wash it.
Be sure to continue washing the rice until the water is almost clear.
Once cooked, it is important that you handle the Basmati rice very delicately. If you stir too harshly, it will split and turn to mush. Ideally, you should use a fork or a chop stick to carefully stir the grains.
How much rice per person?
Many people have asked me how much rice to serve per person. I have found that 1 cup (185g) of dry rice serves two people easily.
Other things to know…
This Basmati rice recipe may seem a bit long and drawn out but trust me here. If you want perfection, you’re going to get it.
To make this Basmati rice recipe you need a sauce pan with a tight fitting lid. Never fill your pan more than one third full or the rice will not cook correctly.
Rice to water ratio is always 1 measure of rice : 1½ water
Chicken Biryani
Ingredients:
Marinade
350mls plain whole milk yoghurt
3 tbsp neutral oil
6 tbsp biryani masala
3 tsp coriander powder
1 tsp cumin powder
2½ tsp red chili powder
¾ tsp turmeric powder
¾ tsp nutmeg powder
pinch cane sugar
3 tsp kosher salt
Biryani Masala
Whole Spices
9 medium dried bay leaves
15-18 whole cloves
12-15 whole black cardamoms
18 star anise
18 green cardamom pods
6 3-inch cinnamon sticks
2¼ tsp cumin seeds
1½ tsp whole black peppercorns
Parboiled Rice
1kg long grain basmati rice
4 tbsp kosher salt
3 tbsp oil
3 tsp lemon juice
Biryani
¾ cup neutral oil, plus more as needed
6 tbsp ghee, or sub butter
6 medium yellow onions, thinly sliced
3 tbsp heaped garlic cloves, crushed
3 tbsp heaped ginger, crushed
230gms small tomato, finely chopped
5 green chillies (such as Thai or Serrano)
15 dried plums, (alu Bukhara)
1 ½ tsp kosher salt
3 tsp garam masala
1½ tsp red chili flakes
3 tsp lemon juice
Layering
1½ tsp chaat masala or garam masala
3 tbsp oil
¾ cup cilantro leaves, chopped
6 tbsp mint leaves, chopped
⅓ tsp yellow food colouring mixed with 1 tbsp milk
3 sliced lemon, thinly sliced
Method:
In a medium bowl, combine the chicken with the ingredients listed under ‘marinade’. Cover & set aside or refrigerate (ideally) up to overnight. When ready to use, allow the chicken to come to room temperature.
Thoroughly wash the rice & soak it in water. Set aside.
Heat a large, heavy bottomed pan over high heat. Add the oil, ghee, & onions & sauté until the onions are golden (~15-20 minutes). Deglaze the pan with ¼ cup water. Once the water dries up, add the whole spices, garlic, & ginger & sauté for another 2 minutes.
Add the chicken with its marinade & sauté until it changes colour (~2-3 minutes). Add the tomatoes, green chili pepper, & dried plum (alu Bukhara) & stir to coat. Add ½ cup water (the water should cover about 1/3 of the chicken) & bring to a gentle boil.
Turn the heat down to a gentle simmer (this is low heat on my stovetop), cover, & allow the chicken to cook for 30 minutes, stirring midway. While the chicken is cooking, proceed to the next step. Turn off the heat once the chicken has cooked.
Meanwhile, prepare the rice. Place a medium pot over high heat & bring 7 cups (1.75 quarts) of water to a boil (See Tip). Add salt, oil, & lemon juice/vinegar & stir. Once the water comes to a boil, drain & add the rice. Stir, & bring it back up to a boil. Once it comes to a boil again, boil for 5 minutes (no more than 5 minutes & 30 seconds), or until the rice is just cooked with a bite to it. It shouldn’t get mushy when pressed between your fingers. (See Note 1) Drain & set aside.
Uncover the chicken. Raise the heat to medium-high to sauté out any excess water for 2-3 minutes. Add salt, garam masala, & red chili flakes for more heat (if desired). The oil will have separated from the ‘masala’. Turn off the heat. Add kewra water & lemon juice & stir to combine.
Steaming (‘Dum’)
If needed, lightly oil the bottom of a Dutch oven or stock/soup pot. Layer half of the drained rice. Sprinkle ¼ tsp of the chaat/garam masala on top of the rice. Add in all the chicken, & top with the remaining rice. Sprinkle the remaining ¼ tsp of chaat/garam masala. Drizzle in the coloured milk & oil. (Optional: Sprinkle a pinch of food colouring directly for more variation in colour.) Sprinkle the cilantro leaves & mint leaves, & arrange the lemon slices on top.
If your pan isn’t heavy bottomed, place a heat diffuser, flat griddle, or tava underneath the pan to diffuse the heat. Layer the lid with a kitchen cloth (or aluminium foil) & seal tightly. (See Note 2) Turn on the heat to medium & allow the biryani to develop steam for 4-5 minutes. You’ll be able to feel the steam starting to escape the sides. Then turn down to the lowest heat & allow it to cook in its steam (‘dum’) for 20 minutes. Turn off the heat & allow the biryani to rest with the lid on for 10 minutes. Do not stir or mix. To serve, gently move on to platter with rice paddle or small plate. Serve hot with yogurt or raita.
Jeera Rice - Authentic Cumin
Jeera Bhaat or Zeera Chawal is an Indian and Pakistani dish consisting of rice and cumin seeds It is a very popular dish in the Indian subcontinent and most commonly used as an everyday rice dish. The Hindi term for cumin seeds is “jeera” or “zeera”, with the latter also being used in Urdu, thus owing to the name of the dish. The ingredients used are rice, cumin seeds, vegetable oil, onions, salt and coriander leaves.
Ingredients:
280g (1½ cup) good quality Basmati rice
530mls (2¼ cups) water
2 tbsp ghee or butter
1 tbsp cumin seeds
1 cassia (Indian) bay leaf
4 green cardamom pods, lightly crushed
5cm cinnamon stick
3 cloves
1 – 2 red bullet chillies, finely chopped (optional)
1 tsp salt
2 tbsp fresh coriander (cilantro), finely chopped
Method:
Place the rice in a bowl and cover with cold water. Swirl the water around with your hand. The water will become milky from the starch on the rice. Pour this cloudy water out and repeat about 5 times until the water is almost clear.
Cover the rice with water to soak for at least 30 minutes or a few hours.
When you are ready to cook, heat a sauce pan that has a tight fitting lid over a medium-high heat and melt the ghee. Stir in the cumin, the other whole spices and red chilli (if using) and allow it all to sizzle in the hot ghee for about a minute.
Stir in the soaked and strained rice and move it around in the pan to coat with the spiced ghee mixture.
Add about a tsp salt or to taste.
Add the water and cover the pan. Bring to a boil over a high heat and then turn off the heat. Do not be tempted to lift the lid. Just set a timer for 40 minutes and walk away.
After 40 minutes, lift the lid and stir very gently with a fork or chopstick. Do not stir too vigorously as
Basmati rice has a tendency to split if stirred too hard.
Top with the chopped coriander (cilantro) and serve on its own or with your curry, dal or chutney of choice.
Pilau Rice
The name “Pilau Rice” has a rich history and can be traced back to several languages and cultures. The term “pilau” is the British and Commonwealth English spelling, which has its roots in Persian and Urdu. The word “pilau” comes from the Persian word “pulaw” and the Urdu word “pulāv”, both of which refer to a dish of rice and meat.
The term “pilau” also has connections to the Tamil language, specifically the word “Pulukku”, which refers to simmered, boiled, or parboiled food, and cooked rice1. This Tamil term is likely derived from the Sanskrit word “pulāka”, which means “ball of rice”.
The dish itself, including its name, spread from the Middle East and Central Asia to other parts of the world, including India during the Mughal Empire. Over time, each region added its own unique twist to the recipe, leading to the variety of pilau dishes we see today. So, the name “Pilau Rice” reflects a blend of cultural influences and culinary traditions from across the globe. It’s truly a dish that has travelled the world!
Ingredients:
280gms (1½ cup) Basmati rice
530mls (2¼ cups) chicken stock
2 tbsp ghee
5 green cardamom pods
5cm cinnamon stick
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp cloves
1 tsp black peppercorns
2 Indian (cassia) bay leaves.
½ onion, finely chopped
1 tsp salt
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tbsp fresh coriander, finely chopped
Method:
Pour the rice into a bowl and cover with water. With your hand, move the rice around in the water. The starch will come of the rice and the water will become milky. Repeat 5 times and then cover with fresh water to soak for at least 30 minutes.
Once your rice has soaked, heat the ghee in a sauce pan that has a tight fitting lid. Stir in the whole spices and bay leaves and let them infuse into the ghee for about 30 seconds. Then add the chopped onion and salt and fry it for about 5 minutes or until soft and translucent. Stir in the ground turmeric until the onion is completely coated and yellow.
Drain the rice through a sieve. Pour the rice into a sauce pan and cover with the water. Cover and bring to a boil. When the water boils, turn off the heat and allow it to steam, without lifting the lid for 40 minutes.
After 40 minutes, uncover the pan and your pilau rice will be cooked perfectly. Carefully, stir the rice grains with a fork or chopstick.
Serve garnished with the chopped coriander
Basmati Rice
Ingredients:
500gms basmati rice
750mls water
½ tsp salt
1 tbsp butter
Method:
Pour the rice in a large bowl and cover with water. Swirl the rice around in the water with your hand until the water becomes milky.
Drain and repeat until the water runs clear. Ten to 15 changes of water is not out of the question.
Cover the rice one more time with fresh water and allow to soak for 30 minutes.
Drain after 30 minutes and then cover the rice with three cups of fresh water. Add the butter and salt and cover with the lid.
Bring to a rapid boil and then turn off the heat. Please do not be tempted to lift the lid for 40 minutes.
After 40 minutes, lift the lid and fluff the rice very carefully with a fork.
Basmati rice will split and become mushy if handled to harshly. Simply run the fork through the rice slowly separating all the grains.