- Beef Mince: Overview
- Beef Mince: Spaghetti Bolognaise
- Beef Mince: Traditional Chilli Con Carne
- Beef Mince: Classic Meatloaf
- Beef Mince: The Classic Hamburger
- Beef Mince: Steak Tartare
- Beef Mince: Sheppard’s Pie
- Moussaka (Greek Eggplant Lasagna)
- Beef Oxtail: Overview
- Braised Oxtail w/ Mash
- Point End & Naval Brisket: Overview
- Slow Braised Brisket in red wine w/ horseradish cream
- Brisket Rubs: Southwestern Style Wet Rub
- Brisket Rubs: Authentic Texas-Style Brisket Dry Rub
- Porterhouse Steak Overview
- Prime Beef Ribs: Overview
- Standing Prime Beef Rib Roast
- Beef Striploin Overview
- Roast Black Angus Striploin
- Blade Steak Overview
- Steak & Mushroom Pie w/ Red Wine Jus
- T-Bone Steak: Overview
- T-Bone Steak w/ Green Peppercorn Pan Sauce
- Beef Tenderloin: Overview
- Beef Tenderloin: Beef Chateaubriand
- Beef Tenderloin: Pan-Seared Filet Mignon
- Beef Wellington
- Beef Chuck Overview
- Boeuf Bourguignon
- Hungarian Goulash
- Osso Buco (Italian Braised Veal Shanks)
- Beef Braciole
Beef Mince: Overview
Beef mince is extremely affordable & versatile. It can be used in formed applications like burgers, meatballs & meatloaf, or can be broken up & browned for use in pasta sauces, taco & chilli con carne etc. It’s typically produced from tougher cuts that offer excellent flavour but need to be ground to be tender.
In this instance, the diagram below indicates the ground beef comes from the brisket; however, topside also produces a lean mince which is suitable for bolognaise & chilli con carne for example where you don’t require a high fat to meat ratio. Beef patties or hamburgers require a higher fat ratio to bind & it may be necessary to introduce
fat to achieve this goal. Fat, when render also enhance the flavour profile.
This beef has been ground with an 85%/15% lean/fat ratio. This fat ratio is perfect for burgers, meatballs, meatloaf, & other formed applications because the fat will help keep them moist.
Applications: Burgers, Meatballs, Tacos, Sauces, Meatloaf
I have included a tutorial of a liaison below & discuss emulsion sauces in depth in our summary of Hollandaise Sauce & it’s secondary or derivative sauces.
Spaghetti Bolognaise
Ingredients:
7-8 cloves of garlic
2 large onions
1 only eggplant
1 green, 1 red capsicum
200gms button mushrooms
2 sprigs of fresh rosemary
olive oil
2kgs topside mince
1litre vegetable stock
2 x 400gms plum tomatoes
500gms dried spaghetti
Parmesan cheese
extra virgin olive oil
Method:
Preheat the oven to 180ºC.
Peel & finely chop the garlic & onions, pick & finely chop the rosemary, then finely slice the bacon.
Heat a splash of oil in a casserole pan on a medium heat, add the bacon, rosemary, garlic & onion & cook
for 5 minutes, or until softened, stirring occasionally.
Add the minced beef, breaking it apart with the back of a spoon, then cook for 2 to 3 minutes, or until starting to brown, then pour in the wine. Leave to bubble & cook away.
Meanwhile, drain & tip the sun-dried tomatoes into a food processor, blitz to a paste, then add to the pan with the tomatoes. Stir well, break the plum tomatoes apart a little.
Cover with a lid then place in the oven for 1 hour, removing the lid & giving it a stir after 30 minutes – if it looks a little dry at this stage, add a splash of water to help it along.
About 10 minutes before the time is up, cook the spaghetti in boiling salted water according to the packet instructions.
Once the spaghetti is cooked, drain, reserving a mugful of cooking water, then return to the pan with a few spoons of Bolognese, a good grating of Parmesan & a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.
Toss to coat the spaghetti, loosening with a splash of cooking water, if needed.
Divide the spaghetti between plates or bowls, add a good spoonful of Bolognese to each, then serve with a fine grating of Parmesan.
Traditional Chilli Con Carne
Ingredients:
Spices Mix
1 star anise
2 tbsp cumin seeds
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
1 cinnamon stick
1 teaspoon cloves
1 teaspoon cracked black peppercorns
Chilli:
2 red peppers
9 large ripe tomatoes
4 tablespoons olive oil
2kg beef topside mince
Salt & pepper, for seasoning
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 yellow onions, finely diced
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 tbsp dried oregano
3 tbsp chilli oil
2 tbsp fish sauce
1 tablespoon soy sauce
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon tomato puree
1 tablespoon dark brown sugar
400ml / 13 ½ fl. oz freshly brewed coffee
500ml / 2 cups chicken stock
1kg red kidney, chickpea or borlotti beans or all 3 varieties
Olive oil
To Serve:
75g / ½ cup sour cream
1 cup coriander, finely chopped
1 red chilli, finely chopped
Method:
Preheat the oven to 200˚C.
In a non-stick pan add the spices & toast them lightly until they release their aroma. Do this for 2 to 3 minutes, then reserve on the side.
Lightly rub the red peppers & tomatoes with half of the olive oil & place them on a baking tray. Roast in the oven for 35 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a large cast-iron casserole dish add the remaining olive oil & heat up over high heat. Season the beef chunks with salt & pepper, then sear the meat into small batches. This will make sure your meat gets good colour. Once one batch is ready, remove it from the pan & place it in a bowl on the side. Repeat until all your meat is browned.
Add a little more olive oil into the same cast iron pan & fry the onions slowly over low heat for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring from time to time. Add the garlic & the dried oregano, then continue to cook for another 5 minutes.
When ready, take the roasted veggies out of the oven & remove the stalks & seeds from the peppers but keep the charred skins. Place them in a blender with the toasted spices, the Chipotle Paste, fish sauce, soy sauce, balsamic vinegar, tomato puree & brown sugar. Blend into a smooth sauce.
Now place the beef & any meat juices back into the casserole dish with the fried onion mixture. Pour in the chipotle sauce, add the coffee, the chicken stock, a good pinch of salt & freshly ground black pepper. Bring everything to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium & simmer with a lid on for 2½ hours.
This is a good time to prepare the chipotle corn bread recipe.
After 2½ hours of simmering, remove the lid & check if the beef is tender by testing a little piece. Finally, add two pouches of Cantina Beans with their juices & stir in. Let it cook all together for a further 30 minutes over medium heat, with the lid off.
Serve your ultimate chilli con carne while it’s nice & hot. Add a drizzle of sour cream on top, a bit of coriander, red chilli, & serve with slices of warm chipotle cornbread ready to dip in.
Classic Meatloaf
Ingredients:
125mls chicken stock
100mls buttermilk
14gms unflavoured gelatine
100gms fresh breadcrumbs
200gms button mushrooms
3 anchovy filets
1 tsp vegemite
2 tsp (10ml) soy sauce
1 tsp paprika
2 cloves garlic
2 large onions
2 large carrots, grated
2 stalk celery
2 tbsp unsalted butter
1kg pork mince
1kg beef mince
2 large eggs
3 sprigs parsley
salt & freshly pepper
Glaze
200mls Tomato Sauce
100gms brown sugar
100mls balsamic vinegar
Method:
Combine the chicken stock & buttermilk in a liquid measuring cup & sprinkle the gelatine evenly over the top. Set aside.
Place the bread & mushrooms in a food processor & pulse until finely chopped. Transfer to a large bowl & set aside.
Add the anchovies, Marmite, soy sauce, paprika, & garlic to the processor bowl & pulse until reduced to a fine paste, scraping down the sides of the bowl as necessary. Add the onion, carrot, & celery & pulse until finely chopped but not pureed.
Heat the butter in a 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until foaming. Add the chopped vegetable mixture & cook, stirring & tossing frequently, until it is softened & most of the liquid has evaporated, about 5 minutes; the mixture should start to darken a bit. Stir in the buttermilk mixture, bring to a simmer, & cook until reduced by half, about 10 minutes. Transfer to the bowl with the mushrooms & bread, stir thoroughly to combine, & let stand until cool enough to handle, about 10 minutes.
Add the ground meat to the bowl, along with the eggs, cheese, parsley, 1 tablespoon kosher salt (or half that volume in table salt), & 1 teaspoon pepper. With clean hands, mix gently until everything is thoroughly combined & homogeneous; it will be fairly loose. Pull off a teaspoon-sized portion of the mixture, place it on a microwave-safe plate, & microwave it on high power until cooked through, about 15 seconds. Taste the cooked piece for seasoning & add more salt &/or pepper as desired.
Transfer the mixture to a 9- by 5-inch loaf pan, being sure that no air bubbles get trapped underneath. (You may have some extra mix, depending on the capacity of your pan; this can be cooked in a ramekin or free-form next to the loaf.) Tear off a sheet of heavy-duty aluminium foil large enough to line a rimmed baking sheet & use it to tightly cover the meatloaf, crimping it around the edges of the pan. Refrigerate the meatloaf while the oven preheats. (The meatloaf can be refrigerated for up to 2 days.)
Adjust an oven rack to the lower-middle position & preheat the oven to 350°F. When the oven is hot, remove the meatloaf from the refrigerator &, without removing the foil cover, carefully invert it onto the rimmed baking sheet. Loosen the foil & spread it out, leaving the pan on top of the meatloaf (see note). Fold up the edges of the foil to trap the liquid that escapes from the meatloaf while baking. Bake until just beginning to set (the top should feel firm to the touch), about 30 minutes.
Use a thin metal spatula to lift an edge of the inverted loaf pan, jiggling it until it slides off the meatloaf easily, & use oven mitts or a folded kitchen towel to remove the pan, leaving the meatloaf on the centre of the foil. Return to the oven & bake until the centre of the meatloaf registers 140°F on an instant-read thermometer, about 40 minutes longer. There will be quite a bit of exuded juices; this is OK. Remove from the oven & let rest for 15 minutes. Increase the oven temperature to 500°F.
Meanwhile, Make the Glaze: Combine the ketchup, brown sugar, vinegar, & pepper in a small saucepan & cook over medium-high heat, whisking occasionally, until the sugar is melted & the mixture is homogeneous, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat.
Use a brush to apply some glaze to the meatloaf in a thin, even layer, then return it to the oven & bake for 3 minutes. Glaze again & bake for 3 minutes longer. Glaze one more time & bake until the glaze is beginning to bubble & be a deep burnished brown, about 4 minutes longer. Remove from the oven & allow to rest for 15 minutes. Slice & serve with any extra glaze & mustard or ketchup as desired.
The Classic Hamburger
Ingredients:
• 1kg pork mince
• 1kg beef mince
• 2 large eggs
• 3 anchovy filets
• 1 tsp vegemite
• 2 tbsp soy sauce
• 1 tsp paprika
• 2 medium cloves garlic, finely minced
• 2 large onions, finely minced, but not pureed
• 2 large carrots, finely minced but not pureed
• 1 stalk celery, finely minced but not pureed
• 3 parsley sprigs, finely minced
• 50gms unsalted butter
• 12 cheddar slices
• Kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper
Method:
Combine pork & beef mince, eggs, anchovy filets, vegemite, soy sauce, paprika & finely minced garlic.
Add onions, carrots, celery, parsley & melted butter & combine with beef & pork mince. Add salt & pepper & test by cooking a small amount. Adjust accordingly.
Prepare you mise en place, cut hamburger buns in half & butter & lightly grill. Caramelize onions, slice tomatoes & shred or break up lettuce. Set up your assembly station.
Turn on grill or cook patties on a heavy based frypan. Shape patties to desired size & cook 2 minutes on both sides on high heat. Remove & place on fine wire rack in a baking tray. Repeat process until you sufficient for the occasion.
Bake in medium to hot oven for 10 minutes, remove & rest for a further 10 minutes.
Assemble hamburgers with the patty sitting on the bottom bun to absorb released juices & the slice cheese placed on the hot patty. The assembly process thereafter is entirely up to you.
Add sauce of choice & sit back & admire your creation.
(Your patty is possibly 80-85% cl or 85% lean beef mince & 15% fat. Your cooked yield will be very different from your uncooked yield due to the fat rendering during the cooking process. Ideal uncooked weight is 150gms, expect a cooked yield of 30% less or approximately 110gms).
Building a Hamburger: The star of the show is definitely the beef patties, it has to be flavoursome & juicy as you take the first bite. When cooking, you have to apply sufficient heat to melt the fat content which will permutate throughout the patty & infuse with additional flavour. Bring the grill up to a temperature of 149°C & beyond & reap the rewards of the Maillard reaction kicking in which gives browned food its distinctive flavour profile & in so doing, you form a crust on the surface of the patty
Condiments
BTL: Bacon, Tomato & Lettuce: Bacon is debatable, but lettuce & tomato are non-negotiable, a hamburger is not a hamburger without this pairing.
Caramelized Onions: really complements the beef patty due to the caramelization of the sugars contained within the onions which will take on a brown colour & a rich, slightly sweet & nutty flavour. Combined with the mailard reaction working for us when cooking the beef burger, food science is indeed our best friend in this instance.
Sandwich Gherkin: offers a bitterness that cuts into the fat of the hamburger; generally added on request or excluded on request.
Sliced Beetroot: Like gherkins, I love my beetroot on a hamburger but I certainly don’t like the mess they generally make or should I say the mess I generally make.
Cheddar sliced: is the go to cheese of choice but edam, vintage, mozzarella, or any sliced cheese will suffice, particularly if have has good melting characteristics.
Sauces
Sriracha (sih-RATCH-ə) A chili sauce made from a paste of chili peppers, distilled vinegar, garlic, sugar, & salt.
Tomato sauce, barbeque sauce & mayonnaise all offer a distinct taste profile but like the sriracha chilli sauce above, all contain an acid in the form of vinegar or lemon juice.
Acidic ingredients play an important role in flavour, adding bright, fresh notes & enhancing other ingredients, in particular providing balance to both bitterness & sweetness. In addition, acids contribute to leavening in baking, & to tenderization in a variety of foods, such as proteins.
Although sourness by itself is not necessarily a good thing (in fact, many spoiled foods taste sour), all great meals are about the balance between the five flavours: sweet, salty, sour, bitter, & umami.
Steak Tartare
350gms Beef tenderloin, fine diced or minced, depending on preference
2 egg yolks
1 tbsp olive oil
1 tsp Worcestershire sauce
1 tsp Tabasco sauce
1 tbsp cornichon, cut brunoise
1 tbsp shallot, cut brunoise
1 tbsp capers, drained & cut brunoise
1 tsp flat leaf parsley, fresh, finely chopped.
1 tsp Dijon mustard, whole grain or French
½ tsp red pepper flakes, optional
¼ tsp kosher salt
¼ tsp cracked black pepper
1 squeeze lemon, to taste
Place the tenderloin in the freezer to firm. This allows us to slice the beef evenly for a uniform dice. When the beef is chilled, slice against the grain approximately ½ cm thickness. Julienne the slices to ½ cm thickness & lastly, make your perfect ½cm cubes by dicing the julienned slices.
Combine 1 egg yolk, olive oil, Worcestershire & Tabasco sauce in a mise en place bowl & whisk to achieve an emulsification. Add your finely diced beef tenderloin steak & mix well to ensure an even coating.
Add the beef to a ring mould & make an indentation on the top of the diced tenderloin with the back of a spoon & centre the egg yolk.
The condiments on individual spoons works extremely well, it offers clean lines & the Steak Tartare takes centre stage on the plate, it’s a nice affect. The yolk; once broken acts as a binder & adds texture to the diced tenderloin & add ins on the spoon.
Interestingly, when researching this recipe, it was necessary to investigate Larousse Gastronomique & Auguste Escoffier’s recipe for Steak Tartare, but I also wanted to expand my footprint.
I also researched Julia Child, a revered American chef, author, & television personality who is recognized for bringing French cuisine to the American public with her debut cookbook, Mastering the Art of French Cooking, & her subsequent television programs, the most notable of which was The French Chef.
Tom Aikens, a Michelin-starred chef who has made a name for himself in the culinary world working in several prestigious restaurants in London & Paris. He is known for his innovative cooking techniques & his commitment to using ethically-sourced ingredients.
Matt Moran is an Australian chef who began his career as an apprentice at La Belle Helene, one of Sydney’s best restaurants at the time, where he quickly rose to the role of head chef. He then took the helm at Manfredi before launching his first restaurant, The Paddington Inn Bistro. Moran has won numerous awards & accolades throughout his career, including a prestigious Michelin star.
Escoffier was certainly not expansive with his writings, whereas Child introduces olive oil & cognac to her Tartare, but excludes the Worcestershire & Tabasco sauces. Aikens additions from Escoffier’s recipe include chilli, tomato sauce, mayonnaise, brandy, chives & sourdough, but excludes the Worcestershire sauce, whereas Matt Moran includes anchovies, chives & toasted baguettes.
Nothing stays the same & nor should it; Auguste Escoffier died in 1935 at the age of 88; since the great man last rattled the pans & whisked his last sabayon, culinary advancements, innovations & food trends has taken tremendous leaps forward. Escoffier’s world was so different from todays. Importantly, all three chefs respect Escoffier original recipe, but not to be innovative in the kitchen would assign one to mediocrity.
Auguste Escoffier’s
Ingredients:
Uncooked beef, minced or chopped
Capers
Chopped shallots
Salt
Pepper
Worcestershire sauce
Tabasco sauce
Finely chopped pieces of French pickles, cornichon
Julia Child
Ingredients:
1 pound beef tenderloin, trimmed of fat & gristle
2 tbsp minced shallots
1 tbsp capers, rinsed, drained, & chopped
2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley leaves
1 tbsp Dijon mustard
1 egg yolk
¼ tsp salt
1/8 tbsp freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup olive oil
1 tbsp cognac
Tom Aikens
Ingredients:
550g beef fillet, diced
25g banana shallot, finely chopped
40g cornichons, chopped
40g baby capers, rinsed
½ red chilli, finely chopped
80ml tomato ketchup
20g Dijon mustard
90g mayonnaise
5 drops Tabasco
14ml brandy
1 pinch chives, chopped
1 pinch parsley, chopped
1 tsp black pepper, plus extra for seasoning
1 pinch salt, plus extra for seasoning
4 egg yolks
4 slices sourdough bread
100g rocket
Matt Moran
Ingredients:
350g trimmed beef fillet, diced into 5mm cubes
2 tbsp Dijon mustard
4 anchovies, finely chopped
1 tsp Worcestershire sauce, or to taste
4 very fresh egg yolks
2 eschalots, finely chopped
2 tbsp drained capers in brine, finely chopped
2 tbsp finely chopped chives
2 tbsp finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
6 cornichons, finely chopped
Tabasco, to taste
Toasted baguette slices rubbed with garlic, to serve
Sheppard’s Pie
Ingredients:
For the Mashed Potatoes:
1.6kg russet potatoes (about 4 large), peeled & cut into 1-inch pieces
Kosher salt
85gms unsalted butter, cubed
For the Meat Sauce:
360ml) homemade chicken stock
2 packets unflavoured gelatine
30mls vegetable oil
1kg ground beef or lamb, or 500gms of each
1 large onion, cut macédoine
3 medium carrots, cut macédoine
2 ribs celery, cut macédoine
2 medium cloves garlic, minced
2 tbsp tomato paste
240mls dry red wine
2 sprigs thyme
1 bay leaf
1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce
1 tsp vegemite
2 tbsp (15g) all-purpose flour
225gms frozen peas
Kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper
Method:
For the Mashed Potatoes: Set cubed potatoes in a colander & rinse under cold water until water runs clear. Transfer to a large saucepan & cover with cold water by at least 2 inches. Season water with salt until almost as salty as the sea. Bring water to a boil over high heat, then reduce heat to medium-low & simmer until a knife easily pierces potatoes with no resistance, 10 to 15 minutes. Drain potatoes in colander, then rinse with hot running water for 30 seconds. Transfer potatoes to a large bowl.
Using a potato masher, food mill, or ricer, mash potatoes with butter. Press surface smooth, then press plastic wrap directly against surface to prevent a skin from forming. Set aside until ready to assemble.
For the Meat Sauce: Place stock in a 2-cup liquid measuring cup, sprinkle with gelatine, & set aside.
Heat oil in a large Dutch oven over high heat until shimmering. Add half of ground meat & cook, stirring & scraping bottom of pot, until well browned, 6 to 8 minutes; use a potato masher or large whisk to break up meat. Add remaining meat & cook, breaking up with masher or whisk, until reduced to small bits, about 3 minutes; lower heat as necessary to prevent scorching. If meat has rendered an excessive amount of fat, use a metal spoon to ladle most of it out, leaving just a few tablespoons in the pot. Add onion, carrots, celery, & garlic & cook, stirring & scraping bottom of pot, until just beginning to soften slightly, about 4 minutes.
Add tomato paste & cook over medium heat, stirring, for 1 minute. Add red wine & bring to a simmer over high heat. Cook, scraping up any browned bits, until almost fully evaporated. Add reserved chicken stock, thyme, bay leaf, Worcestershire, & Marmite, if using. Sprinkle flour over ground meat in pot, then stir in. Bring to a simmer, then reduce heat to low & simmer until sauce is reduced & thick, about 20 minutes. Discard thyme sprigs & bay leaf. Stir in peas & season with salt & pepper.
To Assemble & Bake: Adjust oven rack to centre position & preheat oven to 425°F (220°C). Before assembling, heat cream in a large saucepan until simmering. Add potatoes & stir gently until completely incorporated. Season with salt & pepper. Potatoes are now ready for assembly.
Set a 9- by 13-inch baking dish on a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet. Add meat sauce, being careful not to fill more than halfway. (You might not need all of the sauce, depending on the exact size of your baking dish.) Top with mashed potatoes, spreading them with a spatula to cover surface completely. Using spatula, create a dappled pattern on top of potatoes. Sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese, if using.
Transfer to oven & bake until top is browned & casserole is fully heated through, about 20 minutes. For deeper browning, place casserole on a rack set about 6 inches under a hot broiler for the last few moments of cooking. (Monitor closely to prevent potatoes from burning.)
Boeuf Bourguignon is a classic French dish that consists of beef braised in red wine & flavoured with onions, garlic, herbs, & mushrooms. It is a hearty & rich stew that is often served with potatoes, noodles, or bread.
The history of Boeuf Bourguignon is not very clear, but it is believed to have medieval origins, when peasants used cheap cuts of beef & cooked them slowly in wine to make them tender & tasty1. The dish was not considered very refined or elegant until the 19th century, when chef Auguste Escoffier popularized it in Paris & London & made it part of the haute cuisine.
Boeuf Bourguignon became even more famous in the 20th century, thanks to the American cook Julia Child, who featured it in her cookbook Mastering the Art of French Cooking & her TV show The French Chef. She introduced the dish to millions of Americans & made it a symbol of French gastronomy.
Boeuf Bourguignon is still a beloved dish today, both in France & around the world. It has many variations & adaptations, but it always retains its essence of beef & wine. It is a dish that celebrates the terroir & culture of Burgundy, as well as the art & skill of cooking.
Moussaka (Greek Eggplant Lasagna)
Ingredients:
1 kg / 2 lb eggplant (aubergines) , 0.75cm / 0.3″ thick slices
• 1 tsp salt
• 2 – 3 tbsp olive oil
Filling:
• 1 tbsp olive oil
• 1 onion, diced (brown, white, yellow)
• 3 garlic cloves, minced
• 1.4 lb / 700 g ground beef or lamb (mince) (Note 1)
• ½ cup red wine, dry (optional)
• 14 oz /400g crushed tomatoes
• 3 tbsp tomato paste
• 1 cup beef broth/stock (Note 2)
• 1 beef bouillon cube, crumbled (or 1 tsp powder)
• 2 bay leaves
1.5 tsp sugar (any)
• 2 tsp dried oregano
• ½ tsp cinnamon (or 1 stick, use whole)
• ¾ tsp salt
Béchamel Sauce
200gms butter
200gms all-purpose flour
1 tsp kosher salt, to taste
freshly ground white pepper, to taste
500 mls milk
500 mls culinary cream
½ medium onion, studded with 2 cloves
½ tsp nutmeg
• 1 egg
• 1 egg yolk
• 1 ¼ tsp Vegeta, vegetable or chicken stock powder (or salt) (Note 4)
• ¼ tsp pepper
TOPPING
• 1/3 cup panko breadcrumbs (Note 5)
Method:
Eggplant Preparation
Traditionally, the eggplant slices are fried but there’s plenty of recipes (even from Greek cookbooks) that grill/broil, bake or BBQ the eggplant.
I’ve opted to bake here (like I do with Eggplant Parmigiana), but actually, the fastest & easiest way to cook the eggplant is on the BBQ. There’s a vast volume of eggplant here & it takes 3 trays. If you’ve got a 4 burner BBQ, you’ll get these thin slices of eggplant cooked within 5 minutes (& no salting required).
Why salt the eggplant? Two reasons: to extract excess liquid (otherwise you end up with watery moussaka), & historically also to remove any potential for bitterness (high heat of BBQ will avoid the need for this). These days however the latter is not really necessary, as any bitterness has been bred out of modern eggplants.
Place eggplant slightly overlapping in a large colander. Sprinkle with some salt. Repeat with remaining eggplant.
Leave to sweat for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, make Meat Sauce & Béchamel Sauce.
Preheat oven to 240C/450F.
Pat eggplant dry – make sure to do this well, otherwise it’s too salty. Lay on parchment paper lined trays (you might need 3 trays, work in batches), brush with oil.
Bake 15 – 20 minutes or until lightly browned & softened. Remove & set aside to cool slightly.
Meat Sauce
Heat olive oil in a large skillet or pot over high heat, then cook the garlic & onion for 2 minutes.
Add the beef or lamb & cook until it changes from pink to brown, breaking it up as you go.
Add wine, cook for 1.5 minutes or until alcohol smell is gone.
Add remaining ingredients & stir to combine. Bring to a simmer, then lower heat to medium low & cook for 15 minutes, or until reduced to a thick sauce.
Béchamel Sauce
Melt the butter in a small, heavy based saucepan over low heat. Add the flour in increments of 50gms & whisk to fully incorporate. The flour will absorb the butter; however, & initially, the butter will dominant & the roux will be very liquid. Continue to add the flour & eventually you will create a thick dry paste once all the flour is incorporated, season with salt & ground white pepper.
Cook over low heat, stirring, for a full 2 minutes to cook out the starch in the flour. Remove from heat & let cool.
Heat the milk & cream mixture to poaching temperature, approximately 84ºC with the studded onion & grated nutmeg & slowly add to the cooled roux, approximately 100mls at a time. Let the roux take up & absorb the liquid prior to adding additional while stirring constantly. Repeat the process until all liquid has been incorporated & you have a sauce that is both smooth & silky & naps the back of a spoon. Remove & discard the studded onion once the flavours have been infused.
ASSEMBLE
Lower oven to 180C/350F (all oven types).
Place half the eggplant in the bottom of a baking dish (I used my 26cm/9″ Lodge skillet), then top with all the Filling.
Top with remaining eggplant, then pour over the Béchamel Sauce, sprinkle with breadcrumbs.
Bake for 30 – 40 minutes or until golden brown. Allow to stand for 10 minutes before serving.
Beef Oxtail: Overview
Oxtail use to be a very affordable cut & was once given away as an incentive to purchase higher valued & more expensive beef cuts demanding higher gross profit margins. A very distinctive flavour, oxtail is now highly sort & commands a high price based on its popularity. Unfortunately, cattle only have one tail & demand can outstrip supply. Reasonably high in fat content, the connective tissue will dissolve into gelatine when cooked, giving body & better mouth feel to broths & braising liquid. Tail meat also has a high percentage of collagen associated with the connective tissue & demands a very slow braised;
however, the end result is definitely worth the extensive cook time.
Oxtail is typically cross cut using a band saw into disc portions that look like mini osso bucco. They can also be hand cut at the joints into larger pieces. These tails are sold whole (short cut & trimmed).
Applications: Braise or Make Soup.
Braised Oxtail w/ Mash
Ingredients:
1. 3kgs oxtails
2. Olive oil
3. 3 large shallots, thinly sliced
4. 1 cup red wine
5. 2 litres Beef Stock
6. 1 (28-ounce) can whole stewed tomatoes
7. 1 large sprig fresh oregano
8. Kosher salt & cracked black pepper
The unmistakable aroma of oxtail slowly braising on the stove or as a casserole in the oven gives the entire house a warm comforting feel. As discussed above, oxtails commands a high percentage of collagen, which requires a long slow cook in a braising liquid to fully breaks down & become tender & succulent. Red wine only adds to the intense flavour of the meat, while the acidity level of the tomatoes will further break down the sauce adding texture during the cooking process.
This simple braise really benefits from good quality ingredients, so use a red wine that you’re going to be happy sipping while the braise sits in the oven for hours. Apply the respect oxtail is due & serve with copious amounts of creamy mash to take up the rich red wine jus.
Method:
Preheat oven to 160°C. Heat large braising dish or Dutch oven over medium high heat, drizzle with olive oil, & season oxtails with salt & pepper. When oil is shimmering add oxtails to braising dish. Sear oxtails on all sides until deep golden brown.
Once oxtails are brown remove from pan & reserve. Add sliced shallots stirring to scrap up brown bits from bottom of pan until shallots begin to take on some colour. Add oxtails back to pan, add red wine & can of whole peeled tomatoes & beef stock & bring to a simmer on stove top. Cover with lid & place in the oven until oxtails are fork tender. Slowly slowly, a slow simmer only which should take 4 hours to cook.
Once oxtails are tender remove tails & sprig of oregano from braising liquid & reduce liquid over medium high heat until your sauce naps the back of a spoon. Warm oxtails in reduced sauce before serving. Serve with fluffy mashed potatoes & plenty of red wine.
Point End & Naval Brisket: Overview
North America has a love affair with brisket, if not one of the most popular & highly sort cuts, it would certainly come close.
When writing this article, I considered my options:
a. Brisket is packed with flavour & has a nice fat content but if not cooked correctly, eating boot leather can be a better option.
b. Engage an American chef who had a restaurant in Montana which served a braised brisket casserole for many years & this dish was never too far from being discussed
c. I have never had the patience to master the fine art of cooking a brisket; to suggest it is a confidence thing & the realization that I may possibly fail would be pretty close to the mark.
The brisket is a flavourful, affordable cut that’s commonly braised (pot roast), smoked, ground, or made into corned beef. It can also be cubed for use as stew meat or ground into 75%/25% lean/fat ground beef.
This brisket is the triangular Point End Brisket (briskets are commonly separated into two cuts: Navals & Point Ends).
After cooking, brisket should be sliced against its prominent grain for ideal tenderness.
Applications: Braise, Roast, Corn, Smoke, or minced.
Its time I addressed my insecurities & inferiority complex, particularly when it comes to cooking this beast & have an in depth conversation with my colleague in Montana.
We include two recipes in this module
1. Sous Vide Smoked Brisket
2. Slow Braised Brisket in red wine w/ horseradish cream
Both have to produce the most succulent & flavoursome cuts of cooked brisket known to man. Research will be exhaustive; no leaf will be left unturned in this epic journey to discover the holy grail.
Furthermore, I fully intend to promote my new found skill & tell the world that lamb flaps are a thing of the past, consigned to ancient history & brisket is the way to go. A new chapter is about to be written
Strap yourself in for the ride & enjoy the below article as we dissect the intricacies of the point & naval end brisket.
What’s the Difference between Naval & Point End Brisket:
Refer to picture below which clearly defines both naval & point end brisket. You would think the point end would definitely be the preferred choice; however, there are a few things to consider.
Parts of a Brisket:
A whole brisket divides into two parts—the flat & the point. The flat is, well, flat. It is the large section of meat that covers one side. It is rectangular in shape & may contain fat or silver skin on the surface (which I recommend removing). The flat can be lean, but when selecting, look for an even distribution of small flecks of fat.
The point is an oddly shaped section of meat on the opposite side of the flat cut. A layer of hard fat separates the flat from the point cut, though it can run together at one end. In some areas, the point is trimmed away after smoking & served as burnt ends.
Brisket is available trimmed or untrimmed. Trimmed is usually the flat section. For barbecue, we look for an untrimmed or packer brisket with the fat cap intact. While you can make delicious barbecue with a trimmed flat, it will need a little extra moisture in the form of an injection. I recommend wrapping it for a portion of the cooking time. Smoking the flat is a fast way to make a smaller portion of barbecue brisket.
When buying brisket, there are a couple of things to consider. First, look at the thickness of the flat. You want one that is thick enough to produce decent slices. You might find that the flat tapers to nearly nothing by the time it gets to the thinnest section of the brisket. The way brisket is cut & packaged; it can be difficult to determine thickness. Try your best to find a thicker cut.
When buying brisket, there are a couple of things to consider. First, look at the thickness of the flat. You want one that is thick enough to produce decent slices. You might find that the flat tapers to nearly nothing by the time it gets to the thinnest section of the brisket. The way brisket is cut & packaged; it can be difficult to determine thickness. Try your best to find a thicker cut.
It is worth considering the cooking technique you will apply. Your cooked yield will not look anything like your uncooked yield whether you smoke or braise. The brisket is indeed a flavoursome cut & this can be attributed to the extent of fat cover associated with the cap & internal coverage. Both cooking methods will render this fat content as you apply heat & weight loss is going to approach 30% of your original yield.
Consideration should also be given to the cook time. Braising will take a lazy 12 hours on a slow simmer; whereas smoking will consume 16 hours of your time.
Why are we so scared of Brisket
Keep in mind that brisket is a tough cut of meat. It is a working muscle loaded with plenty of connective tissue & a large muscular grain. It takes long, slow cooking times to make it palatable. But this is what barbecue is all about. Low & slow smoking takes the worst cuts of beef & pork & turns them into something truly fantastic. It has taken centuries of development to produce the barbecue we enjoy today.
The secret with brisket is that the connective tissue makes it ideal for smoking. At around 70°C, connective tissue starts to break down, turning into gelatine & water. This water adds moisture, & the gelatin creates a sweet flavour & silky texture. In barbecue, this is referred to as the stall, or when the internal temperature of the meat holds steady for an hour or two. The stall is nothing to fear; this is when the magic happens.
J. Kenji López-Alt has contributed yet another excellent article for Serious Eats which I have included an extract below. His analytical & thought provoking approach to food science writing is eagerly anticipated as he breaks down the how & why of how best to produce & cook an exceptionally tender brisket. His journalistic mastery, in depth research & willingness to share this knowledge is an excellent training tool only because of his ability to clearly explain the science behind what he wants to project.
“Good brisket is often called the holy grail of barbecue. I’ve tasted barbecued brisket all over the country, & while you can certainly find some truly transcendent barbecued brisket, the vast majority of the time, it’s a dry, bland disappointment. What makes it so hard?
Two factors: It’s tough & it’s lean. With traditional smoking methods, a pork shoulder will tenderize in a matter of hours, & it has tons of connective tissue & fat to help keep it moist as it slow-cooks. A brisket needs to be cooked overnight to completely tenderize. There isn’t as much fat or connective tissue to lubricate the dry meat when it’s finally tender. Unless you have either the experience or the luck to nail every single step of the process, moist, tender brisket exists only in the realm of dreams.
Sous vide cooking changes all that by allowing even a novice to produce brisket that’s as moist & tender.
Why Cook Brisket Sous Vide?
I can already hear the barbecue purists moaning: But it’s not really barbecue! What’s the appeal of boil-in-the-bag? Or perhaps simply muttering into their keyboards, Sacrilege.
It’s a fair point. Sous vide barbecue is not “true” barbecue. We aren’t using hot, smoky air to slowly break down connective tissue & imbue flavour. But, with a bit of good technique, we can certainly come up with a dish that looks, smells, & tastes like barbecue. Not just any barbecue—really, really good barbecue. Barbecue that has a thick, crisp, near-black bark that gives way to meat that melts in your mouth, with a deep smoke flavour.
And let’s be honest here: That’s better than what can be said for at least 98.3% of the “true” barbecue brisket out there (I did a count to verify that number). How many times have you had brisket that’s rubbery & tough? How many times have you had brisket that falls apart in your mouth like it’s made from sawdust? Yup, I thought so. Sous vide makes those scenarios a thing of the past.
For many folks, sous vide offers convenience. I personally don’t have a pellet smoker capable of maintaining a nice low temperature without being monitored, which means that if I want to smoke a brisket the right way, I’m camping out overnight in my backyard, with a thermometer & an alarm to make sure I keep that fire at the exact right level throughout the night.
This is fun to do when there are friends & beers involved, but it’s not something everyone is willing to do every time they get a hankering for brisket. With sous vide cooking, there’s no babysitting required. Set the precision cooker to the right temperature, drop in the meat, walk away until it’s cooked through, then finish it off on the grill or in the oven when you’re ready to serve.
What Temperature & Timing Should I Use?
Depending on the temperature of your water bath & how long you leave the meat in it, you can achieve a wide range of textures in the finished brisket.
At 57°C, brisket will never achieve the fall-apart texture of a traditionally barbecued brisket. Instead, it will soften while retaining its structure. After 12 hours, it’s still quite tough. After 24, it’s as tender as a New York strip steak. After 36 hours, it’s even more tender, &, by 72 hours, you’ll have brisket that can be cut with a spoon, while still giving you a meaty bite & juicy texture.
At 63°C, the meat will just barely start to separate into a traditional brisket grain, but it will be a little drier than it is at 57°C. This is sort of a temperature dead zone for me: too cool to significantly break down muscle fibres to the point that they shred like traditional brisket, but hot enough that the meat will dry out as it cooks.
At 68°C, we get much better results than at 63°C. Yes, the brisket will expel a lot of moisture as it cooks, but what it loses in water it gains in tenderness & moisture, in the form of more connective tissue breaking down & fat rendering. For me, 68°C for between 24 & 36 hours is ideal.
Naval End or Point End?
A full brisket is made up of two distinct cuts of meat: the flat cut & the point cut. The naval is a wide, thin muscle about the size & shape of a large flank steak. It has a small amount of intramuscular fat (marbling), & typically has a nice fat cap on top. The point end is a triangular hunk of meat that lies on top of the flat. It is much higher in intramuscular fat & is correspondingly tastier & moister.
Whether you prefer one over the other is largely a matter of taste, but a point cut brisket is far more forgiving. The real problem? It’s very difficult to find point cut; most of it gets sold to restaurants, leaving us, the lowly home cooks, with the lean flat to deal with.
I strongly recommend looking for brisket with the fat cap still intact & a good amount of intramuscular marbling. Very lean, trimmed brisket is more likely to come out dry.
Slow Braised Brisket in red wine w/ horseradish cream
Ingredients:
4,5 -5kgs Beef Brisket
Southwestern style wet rub
7-8 whole garlic cloves
50mls canola oil
10 thyme sprigs
1litre beef stock
500mls red wine, merlot or shiraz
2 tbsp whole grain mustard
500gms Potatoes
4 bay leaves
3 celery stalks (divide by half)
5 large onions (divide by half)
4 large carrots (divide by half)
1 tbsp lemon juice
3 tbsp horseradish cream
300mls heavy culinary cream
parsley
salt & pepper
Method:
Preheat your oven to 180˚C.
Thickly slice your mirepoix of onion, carrots & celery.
Apply wet rub & place brisket in large baking tray, add mirepoix, oil & roast for 2 hours to initiate mailard reaction & caramelization of the vegetables. Remove, & deglaze tray with beef stock.
Adjust oven to 135˚C. Heat Dutch oven, separate naval & point end to fit oven, add mirepoix, beef stock, red wine & mustard & place in oven & cook on a slow simmer for 3½ hours.
Remove from oven & add other half of mirepoix, potatoes, horseradish cream & culinary cream & return to oven for another 1½ hours.
Remove from oven, add lemon juice & test for tenderness. Rest in hot sauce if necessary for ½ hour.
Plate the brisket with the braising liquid & vegetables. Garnish with additional parsley & serve with horseradish cream on the side.
Southwestern Style Wet Rub
Ingredients:
3 tbsp brown sugar
2 tbsp ground cayenne pepper
2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce
1 tbsp ground paprika
1 tbsp salt
1 tbsp onion powder
1 tbsp ground black pepper
1 tbsp Tabasco sauce
1 tbsp ground cumin
Method:
Clean & dry the brisket.
Combine rub ingredients & apply them onto brisket.
Place brisket in the smoker for 8 to 10 hours.
Authentic Texas-Style Brisket Dry Rub
Ingredients:
5 tbsp paprika
3 tbsp kosher salt
2 tbsp garlic powder
2 tbsp onion powder
1 tbsp freshly ground black pepper
1 tbsp dried parsley
2 tbsp cayenne pepper
2 tbsp ground cumin
1 tbsp ground coriander
1 tbsp dried oregano
¼ tbsp hot chilli powder
½ cup brown sugar
Method:
In a medium bowl, whisk together paprika, salt, garlic powder, onion powder, black pepper, dried parsley, cayenne pepper, cumin, coriander, hot chili powder, oregano, & if desired, the brown sugar until thoroughly mixed.
Pat the brisket dry on all sides using paper towels.
Sprinkle the rub liberally onto the meat. Simultaneously press it in & rub it with your fingertips until it adheres to the entire surface.
Turn the meat & repeat on all sides. Let the brisket sit for up to 24 hours, refrigerated.
Adding the optional sugar tames the heat without eliminating it completely. The sugar in the rub also crisps to a nice brown crust on the meat, but it does burn easily so keep dry-rubbed meat away from high flames. Low & slow.
Recipe Variation
Try adding dry mustard or ground chipotle pepper to the rub. Experiment with the spices to find a combination that suits you best.
You can also use this rub on other cuts of beef or for other meats such as pork, lamb, & venison, or poultry & seafood. When you cook poultry, you want to work the rub both underneath & on top of the skin.
Porterhouse Steak: Overview
Porterhouse steaks are a steakhouse & fine dining favourite because of their excellent balance of tenderness & flavour; however, don’t be confused between an English Porterhouse & that of the Australian version.
The English version of a Porterhouse steak is what we refer to as a T-Bone Steak; it consists of the striploin & the tenderloin whereas the Australian Porterhouse is a striploin only.
They’re considered milder-flavoured than ribeye steaks, but more tender. They’re typically framed on two sides with a thick strip of fat, with the rest of the fat marbled through the beef.
“Centre Cut” strip steaks are sorted so that only steaks cut from the centre of the striploin are packed in each case. Since the centre of the striploin offers the most consistent meat, this ensures that you’ll receive steaks of a consistent size, shape & composition. The vein end of the striploin is not used.
Porterhouse steaks are often served with appropriate sauces, but this cut has sufficient flavour to hold its own if preferred. Ideal to pan sear, broil, grill, roast as a whole striploin or sous vide similar to the recipe on page 2.
Bone in strip steaks may also be available on request.
My preference & my preference alone is to accompany a Porterhouse Steak or a whole roasted Striploin for that matter with a sauce. We have included a Béarnaise sauce recipe below in this instance, but any steak sauce is appropriate.
A traditional Béarnaise is a hot emulsion sauce & is a derivative of Hollandaise, one of the five mother sauces; it is essential to master both & the recipe below is very simple & almost foolproof; however, practise & become comfortable with the process, research the role a vortex plays with the immersion blender method.
We have also included recipe cards below for a simple Salsa Verde, chimichurri & herb butter. All three are very easy to make & preparation time is minimal, whereas the classic Bordelaise Sauce is made from a demi glaze being a derivative of Espagnole sauce, one of the five mother sauces. We have provided
Prime Beef Ribs: Overview
Standing Prime Beef Rib Roast
The terms “Standing Rib Roast” & “Prime Rib Roast” are often used interchangeably, but they refer to slightly different things:
Standing Rib Roast: This term refers to a cooking method or position in which you place your rib roast1. The term “standing” was coined by butchers decades ago & alludes to how they suggest you cook it, standing on the bones1. This is perfect for roast-style cuts because it raises the meat off the roast pan surface, allowing for even cooking1.
Prime Rib Roast: This term refers to a specific cut of beef from the rib section1. The bones of the cow are numbered, & the ones in highest demand are from six to twelve1. If you had ribs from outside that section, they would not be ‘prime rib.’ However, you could still cook them as a ‘standing rib roast’1.
In summary, the main difference lies in the cut of the meat & the cooking method. A standing rib roast is made from the rib area of the cow & is typically roasted, while a prime rib roast is made from the loin area & is often grilled2.
Ingredients:
2.5 kg / 5 lb standing rib roast / prime rib, B/I
1 onion, unpeeled, quartered (brown, yellow, white)
1 head of garlic, unpeeled, halved horizontally
5 sprigs thyme
3 sprigs rosemary
Garlic Herb Butter:
150gms unsalted butter, softened
5 garlic cloves, minced
2 tsp finely chopped fresh rosemary (or 1 tsp dried)
2 tsp finely chopped fresh thyme (or 1 tsp dried)
2 tsp salt
1 tsp black pepper
Red Wine Jus:
500mls beef broth/stock
675mls dry red wine
Method:
Beef Preparation: Bring Beef to room temp: Take beef out of the fridge 2 – 3 hours before cooking to bring to room temp (key tip for even cooking). Pat dry with paper towel.
Preheat oven to 240°C220°C.
Garlic Herb Butter: Mix together.
Roasting bed: Place onion, garlic & herbs in a heavy based oven proof skillet (or use a roasting pan).
Slather 1: Spread a thin layer of butter on the underside of the beef (ie the bone side). Place beef on onion etc, butter side down. Spread about 2/3 of the butter on the top & sides (reserve some for Slather 2).
Hot oven: Roast 20 minutes.
Remove, spread over remaining butter. Turn oven down to 120°C.
Slow roast: Roast for a further 1 ½ hours, basting every 30 minutes with the juices in the pan, until the internal temperature is 51°C / 123.8°F in the centre (for medium rare, Note 4). Start checking the internal temp early.
Rest: Transfer beef to plate. Cover loosely with foil & rest for 20–30 minutes. Internal temperature will rise to 56-58°C.
Red Wine Jus:
Place skillet with onion & garlic left in it on the stove over high heat. Add wine & beef stock, rapidly simmer for 10 minutes until it reduces by 2/3 or so, down to 1 ½ cups or liquid.
Lower heat to medium. Mix cornflour with 2 tbsp water. Drizzle in half & stir. Sauce will thicken in 1 minute or so. Add more cornflour water mixture if you want it thicker.
Strain into bowl, pour into sauce jug.
Beef Striploin Overview
Striploins are a boneless cut from the short loin that’s highly prized for its excellent balance of flavour & tenderness. This is the muscle that Porterhouse steaks (New York Strip Cut), one of the more expensive steakhouse cuts, derive from.
Numbers are typically included in the specs of striploins to designate how much surface fat & lip meat is included with the cut. These are sold “1×1,” meaning that they’ve been mostly trimmed down (leaving some fat on the edge of the Porterhouse steak is traditional). They’re cleaned & easy to slice into steaks of your desired thickness.
1×1 striploins can be cut into NY cut steaks, but also make top quality roasts (whole or as portions).
Applications: Roast Whole or as Portions or Slice into Steaks.
Roast Black Angus Striploin
Ingredients:
3.5 – 4.0 pound Blackwell Angus striploin roast
1 ½ tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon fresh garlic minced Herb Mixture
1 teaspoon coarse ground pepper
2 teaspoons fresh Thyme leaves
1 teaspoon dried mustard
¼ teaspoon salt
Method:
Remove roast from refrigerator to bring to room temperature.
Preheat oven to 250 degrees. Take roasting pan & place on stove top burner, sit temperature to medium-high. Add olive oil & garlic. Once pan is hot sear the roast on all sides about 1 to 2 minutes on each side.
Place roast fat side up on a roasting rack in the center of roasting pan.
In a small bowl mix herbs together. Sprinkle seared roast with herb mixture.
Roast the meat to an internal temperature of 135°F for medium rare doneness as determined by an internal meat thermometer.
Remove roast from oven, cover loosely with foil & let stand for 15-20 minutes before slicing.
Blade Steak Overview
Steak & Mushroom Pie w/ Red Wine Jus
Ingredient
Hot Water Pastry
900gms all-purpose flour
1.5 tsp kosher salt
2 eggs
225gms salted butter, cubed
150mls/gms vegetable shortening or lard
For the meat filling:
7500gms blade steak, large dice
2 large onion, diced
2 large carrot, diced
300gms button mushrooms, quartered
6 garlic cloves, finely diced
750mls beef stock
375mls Shiraz or other red wine
5 sprigs fresh thyme
2 bay leaves
Fish sauce, a dash
2 tbsp vegemite
100gms tomato paste
200mls culinary cream
salt & pepper to taste
Method:
Hot Water Pastry
This involves melting butter & vegetable shortening (‘lard’) together, then slowly mixing it into a flour/egg mixture to form a paste. This type of dough is ideal for making meat pies since it doesn’t split or crack & turns a nice golden colour while baking.
Combine the flour & salt in a mixing bowl. Make a well in the centre & add the egg; mix with a fork or wooden spoon. Heat the butter & shortening in a saucepan until the ingredients are melted. Bring to a boil for twenty seconds then gradually pour the mixture in a steady stream into the dry ingredients. Mix vigorously using a spatula or wooden spoon until dough starts to form a thick paste. Cover the bowl & let rest at room temperature for 30 minutes. Turn the mixture out onto a lightly floured surface & knead for several minutes until the dough forms a smooth ball. Wrap in plastic wrap & chill in the fridge for 30 minutes.
When ready to use the pastry, roll the dough out to between 1/8 to ¼ inch thick- the thinner the better! Cut out the tops & bottoms according to the shape of your pie moulds. For the sides, cut out strips long enough for a ½ inch overlap when fitting the dough into the mould
Pie Filling:
Cut the blade steak into large dice. Dust with a little flour & shake to remove the excess.
Heat a large Dutch oven & dry roast the mushrooms to release their water. Continue to cook until all water has completely evaporated; this process may take 20-25 minutes on a low to medium simmer; it is important to extract all water content from the mushrooms as this will dilute the intense flavour profile you want to achieve from these delicious fungi.
Add 50gms of butter to the mushrooms, season with salt & cracked black pepper & continue to cook for 4-5 minutes on a low simmer. Remove from heat & reserve.
Add the onions to the Dutch oven & lightly caramelize, include the diced blade & carrots & cook on a medium to high heat to release sugars & continue the caramelization of the vegetables & engage the mailard reaction of the diced blade. Add the mushrooms, thyme & bay leaves & cook for a further 5 minutes prior to adding the beef stock & red wine; bring the liquid to a soft simmer, cover & cook for 1½ – 2 hours or until the meat is tender. Ensure that cooking liquid does not reduce to a level below the diced blade, add additional if necessary.
Sauce Reduction:
Remove from heat, cool slightly & using a chinois, strain the cooking liquid from the vegetable & meat & return to the Dutch oven & stove top & simmer to reduce to sauce. To further enhance the flavour profile, add a dash of fish sauce & a tablespoon of vegemite & 2 healthy tablespoons of tomato paste.
Separate the blade steak from the vegetables & shred using a fork; refrigerate both until required.
You want to achieve a reduction of two thirds of the original stock level; you want a pie with an even distribution of sauce to meat ratio, but it is important that you don’t wear the sauce as you bite into it. The sauce has to hold its own!
Importantly, the reduction will concentrate the flavours of the sauce; the blade steak contains a high percentage of connective tissue & therefore collagen. As you apply a continuous slow heat to the meat during the cooking process, the collagen starts to break down releasing its unique gelatinous flavour profile to the sauce.
The mirepoix of onions, carrots & mushrooms in this instance will further enhance the already flavoursome stock while the aromatics & red wine add a degree of complexity to the sauce. With the addition of butter in the mushrooms & the culinary cream, we are essentially layering different fat profiles, further complementing the sauce.
Using just a dash of fish sauce will not adversely affect the flavour, it certainly will not give you a fish tasting sauce but it offers another level of salt to your dish. Similar to layering your fat, to apply the same principles to seasoning is well worth considering.
Vegemite & or Marmite are both spreads made from brewer’s yeast extract; they offer an intensely salty & umami-rich flavour to any beef stew or casserole. Both can add a wonderful rich flavour that is a substitute for a concentrated stock like a demi-glace & can help bring in some of the flavours you get from a good browning on meats.
Both contain glutamic acid, an amino acid that is responsible for the umami taste; I suggest mirroring & complementing a process similar to the mailard reaction when browning meat. Importantly, a tablespoon at a time, both has a very strong flavour, used sparingly
If the consistency isn’t exactly what you want; do not hesitate to add a roux to thicken & addition stock if you sauce is too thick.
Add the reserved shredded blade steak & vegetables back into your sauce & stir to combine. The sauce should coat both the meat & vegetables & hold firm to the touch.
I have included 6 sheets of bloomed gelatine to the pie filling, but only after I removed from the heat as even a slow simmer will decrease the efficiency of the gelatine. Why gelatine in a hot sauce?
There are a few reasons I will add gelatine to stocks, casseroles, stews & soups; firstly, it improves mouthfeel, it also complements & exaggerates the natural jelly derived from the connective tissue of the blade. A security blanket you could say. Cool & refrigerate
To line & bake the pie moulds:
Prepare individual springform tin moulds with oil, discarding any excess.
Roll out the dough, cut the bases, tops & side strips all larger than required to accommodate an overlap which is necessary to prevent leakage.
A jus & a sauce are both used to enhance the flavour of dishes, but they have different compositions & uses:
Jus: This is a term derived from French cooking, & it refers to the natural juices that are released from the meat during cooking1. A jus is made with just broth, poultry or meat stock, & herbs2. It is typically clear & thin, & it’s made from the same juices that have been refined & condensed1. This makes it lighter in flavour & easier to digest.
Sauce: A sauce is a liquid (often thickened) condiment or accompaniment to food. It can be made from the same juices as a jus, but other ingredients such as wines, spirits, butter, flour, milk, or cream are often added. This gives sauces more flavour & complexity2. Sauces can be served hot or cold.
In summary, the main difference between a jus & a sauce lies in their composition & thickness. A jus is typically a light, clear, & thin liquid made from the juices of the meat, while a sauce is a thicker liquid that can include a variety of additional ingredients
T-Bone Steak: Overview
The shortloin consists of the striploin & tenderloin separated by a “T” shaped bone. Because of the heavy bone, it is not typically roasted whole, & can only be sliced into steaks (porterhouse steaks or T-bone steaks) with the help of a band saw.
Apart from the bone, the tenderloin & striploin are both very tender, highly prized steak & roasting cuts. They can be cut off of the bone for use as separate cuts.
Applications: Saw into Porterhouse Steaks or Debone into Striploin & Tenderloin.
T-Bone Steak w/ Green Peppercorn Pan Sauce
The T-Bone steak offers a unique two-in-one experience as it consists of the tenderloin fillet on one side of the bone & a juicy sirloin on the other. This gives diners the best of both worlds when it comes to enjoying two cuts of meat at once.
Ingredients:
T – Bone Steak 400gms
Kosher salt & cracked black pepper
Green Peppercorn Pan Sauce
Pan with fond remaining after searing steaks
1 tablespoon olive oil
3 tablespoons finely chopped shallots
1 cup beef stock
½ cup heavy cream
¼ cup brandy
2 tablespoons red wine
2 tablespoons green peppercorns in brine, drained
½ teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
30gms unsalted butter
Kosher salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Method:
How do you cook a 400gm T–Bone steak or any steak of that size & have a degree of confidence that it is exactly how you or the customer required it to be cooked. A digital read thermometer goes a long way to achieving the goal but this tool cannot guarantee that the beast is cooked evenly. Let me ntroduce you to reverse sear, by no means a new concept but one that has gained popularity through the advancement of food science.
The principle of reverse sear is a two-step process that involves cooking the steak at a low temperature first, & then searing it at a high temperature:
Low-Temperature Cooking: The steak is first cooked gently over indirect heat. This is done at a low temperature of 120°C in an oven. This slow & gentle cooking allows the steak to cook evenly, similar to the effect you get from a sous vide. Unlike sous vide, where the meat steams inside a bag, the reverse sear method keeps the surface of the steak dry. This is important because it enables the steak to brown properly at the end & develop rich flavours.
High-Temperature Searing: After the steak has reached the desired internal temperature (about 15 degrees below your target temperature), it is removed from the oven & seared on a hot pan or grill for about 2–3 minutes on each side. The high heat of the pan or grill creates a crispy crust & locks in the juices.
The reverse sear method aims to achieve an evenly cooked steak with a juicy interior & a crispy crust. It eliminates the risk of overcooking the steak, gives you more control over the cooking process, & allows the steak to cook more evenly. This method is particularly beneficial for cooking large, thick steaks to higher levels of doneness. It allows the internal temperature to rise slowly, & after reaching the desired
internal temperature, you can get a nice crisp with a quick sear.
Green Peppercorn Pan Sauce
After removing steaks from pan, turn heat to high, add olive oil & heat until shimmering. Add shallots & cook until softened & aromatic.
Add in beef stock & bring to a boil to deglaze the fond from the bottom of pan. Lower heat to a simmer & reduced stock to one third of original volume.
Add in heavy cream, brandy, red wine, thyme & green peppercorns & cook until slightly thickened. Add the butter to finish & season to taste; serve immediately with the mother of all T-Bone steaks.
Beef Tenderloin: Overview
Small, thin, lean, incredibly tender muscles located on either side of the backbone, tenderloins are the most prized cut on the entire animal. Their buttery tenderness is legendary & people are willing to pay very high prices for tenderloin roasts & filet mignon steaks.
This cut has a relatively mild flavour (though grass-fed tenderloins are more flavourful than grain-fed ones), so tenderloin roasts & steaks are frequently paired with sauces that add moisture & additional flavour. One of the fancier classical roast recipes, Beef Wellington, is traditionally made with beef tenderloin. This is also an excellent cut for making steak tartare & carpaccio.
Tenderloins have a narrow end & a thick end. To ensure consistency, roasts & steaks are typically cut from the thick end. Roasts can be made from the thin end by cutting the smallest portion off & trussing it to a thicker portion using butcher’s twine. The thin end can also be sliced for beef medallions.
These tenderloins are sold with the “chain” on. The chain is a muscle that runs along the tenderloin. Because it isn’t very pretty or a very useful thickness, it’s usually cut off the tenderloin by butchers or chefs & sautéed as a snack.
Tenderloins also have a side muscle that juts off the thick end. It’s typically cut off of the tenderloin & can be used as a small tenderloin roast. These tenderloins are sold with the side muscle still attached & are cleaned of surface fat down to the silver skin. This version of the cut is sometimes referred to as a “PSMO Tenderloin” (PSMO stands for “Peeled, Side Muscle On”).
Beef tenderloins are often graded into sizes by weight, with “5 & Up” referring to ones graded at or above 2.25kgs each.
Applications: Roast Whole or in Portions, or Slice into Chateaubriand or Filet Mignon Steaks
Beef Chateaubriand
Ingredients:
1 pound beef tenderloin (centre cut)
Salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened & divided
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium shallot, finely chopped
½ cup medium-bodied dry red wine
½ cup demi-glace
1 tablespoon fresh tarragon, chopped (or 2 teaspoons dried)
Method:
Preheat the oven to 180ºC. Evenly season the beef with salt & pepper.
Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter with the olive oil in a large skillet (preferably cast iron) set over medium-high heat until cloudy & bubbly.
Place the seasoned meat in the pan & brown for 3 minutes without moving the meat. Carefully turn the tenderloin on its side & brown for 3 minutes more. Repeat the same browning process on all exposed surfaces of the meat.
Transfer the tenderloin to a rack placed in a roasting pan & put in the oven. (Set aside the skillet with any accumulated juices for making the sauce.) Roast the beef to your desired doneness, about 15 minutes for medium-rare, 20 minutes for medium, & 23 minutes for medium-well.
Remove the meat from the oven & transfer to a warm serving platter. Lightly tent the meat with foil & let rest for 15 minutes.
While the tenderloin is resting, make the wine sauce.
Combine the shallot with the juices in the skillet & sauté over medium heat until translucent.
Pour the wine into the skillet & bring the sauce to a simmer whilst deglazing the pan & reducing by half.
Add the demi-glace to the sauce & continue to cook on a moderate simmer until slightly thickened.
Remove from the heat & stir in the remaining 1 tablespoon softened butter & tarragon. Taste & season with salt & black pepper as needed. Slice the meat on the diagonal & serve with the wine sauce.
Pan-Seared Filet Mignon
Ingredients:
4 only 275gms beef tenderloin, 1.5– 2 inches thick)
salt & pepper to taste
canola oil
garlic & herb butter
½ stick of butter, softened
1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary
1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon
½ tablespoon minced garlic
Method:
For the herb butter: Leave the butter on the counter to soften or place it in a microwave-safe bowl & microwave until malleable, 10-15 seconds. Use a fork to mash in the herbs & garlic until fully mixed. Store in the refrigerator & remove 10 minutes before adding to the filet.
For the fillets: Preheat the oven to 415°F. Remove the steak from the fridge 30 minutes prior to cooking, this is to bring the steak to room temperature & ensure your cooking times are more accurate. Season all sides liberally with salt & pepper. This can be done while your steak comes to room temp.
Add 1-2 tablespoons of oil to an oven-safe cast iron skillet & turn the heat up high, allowing the skillet to become very hot. Twirl the pan to distribute oil as it heats. Once the oil starts to smoke, place the filets face down & sear undisturbed for 2 minutes. Flip the filets & sear for an additional 2 minutes. This will give your filets a nice seared edge.
Optionally add some herb butter & a whole garlic clove, tarragon & rosemary to the pan before transferring it to the oven. The butter will melt & the herbs will season the pan drippings for a later step. Transfer your skillet directly to the oven. [WARNING] skillet may be hot, handle it with oven mitts. For rare, bake for 4 minutes. Medium rare, 5-6 minutes. Medium, 6-7 minutes. Medium well, 8-9 minutes. Remember, depending on the size of the steak, the more or less time it will take. This recipe is ideal for a 280-300gm portion.
Optionally spoon some of the seasoned pan drippings over the steak to infuse it with extra flavour.
Remove filets from the skillet & set them on a plate & let sit for 5-10 minutes before serving. This is important to bring your steak to its final serving temperature.
Top with a slice of garlic & herb butter & serve.
Notes
Cooking steaks at high temps in a skillet tends to get smokey. Open a kitchen window & turn on your kitchen’s overhead vent fan before you start to help with ventilation.
If you don’t have an oven-safe skillet or pan, sear the steaks first & then transfer them to a baking sheet lined with a wire rack. This method works really well at keeping your steaks elevated from the direct heat source but will also add additional cooking time to your oven duration. Plan on 2-3 additional minutes
Temperatures for steak
Rare: 48°C to 50°C
Medium rare: 50°C to 55°C
Medium: 60°C to 65°C
Cooking meat is a combination of physics, chemistry, & biology. Each cut has somewhat different properties based on its composition & structure, & different types of cooking will yield the best* results for various cuts. In almost all cases, cooking a steak to well done will produce objectively poorer results in terms of flavour, texture, aroma, & juiciness.
When talking about “steak”, most people are referring not to all red meat in general, but to beef from cows (that were raised on some kind of farm setting). Further, steak typically refers to specific cuts & preparations, such as sirloin, porterhouse, strip, rib eye, & so on. And in most cases, it is cooked in one of several high-heat direct-contact methods, such as broiling, grilling, searing, etc. (If it’s being baked, stewed, braised or made in any other manner, it is not usually called a steak, even if the anatomical part of the animal overlaps.) While there may be slight variation in the optimal cooking temperature for various cuts, different breeds, different cooking methods, etc, I can’t think of a single type of steak that is objectively better well done. There are many other cuts of meat (such as short rib, brisket, etc.) that benefit from long cooking times to break down connective tissue. But nothing that is normally referred to as a steak fits that description. And I’d venture to say there is nary a steak lover out there who would make fun of you because you prefer your short rib stew well done.
The techniques used for cooking beef for long periods of time are different from those used on steak, & specifically allow for the introduction of additional liquid to prevent dryness, & often employ lower temperatures so that the meat doesn’t suffer from the long cook time.
Generally, cooking a steak optimally seeks to take advantage of two major reactions, from a chemistry/physics standpoint. The first is what is referred to as the “Maillard reaction”. That’s what gives the browned exterior of the beef (& other foods) its desirable flavour. It’s usually characterized as a rich “umami” quality. If the steak is cooked beyond the optimal point, that browned portion is replaced by burnt/charred areas that not only lack the rich flavour from the Maillard reaction, but replace it with bitter, undesirable (& some say carcinogenic) straight carbon.
The second important thing that happens when you cook a steak is that the marbling fat inside the meat renders & melts into the meat. If this process doesn’t happen, due to undercooking, the meat will not be as tender or as rich tasting as it could be. This is why, to a true steak lover, ordering a steak too rare can be just as much a faux pas as ordering it well done. You want to cook it just to the point where the marbling fat renders but isn’t consumed by the heat & burned off or lost. Overcooking a highly marbled steak will make it tougher & more fibrous, as the muscle fibres tighten & the proteins denature completely. To get the most complex flavours out of a steak, you want to have the Maillard browning on the outside, the fat rendering on the inside, the nutty quality of the aging, & the mineral & sanguine aspects of the beef flesh all present. So objectively, there is a point around medium rare that is the “best” for eating & preserving all of those qualities. Eating it at any other temperature is akin to saying, “I want my steak to have less (or simpler) flavour”. If you said that about any other food, it would often bring on teasing, so why not steak?
The leaner the cut of meat, & the less marbling fat there is to render, the less the steak must be cooked to reach the ideal point as described above. So a lean cut like tenderloin is best done slightly rarer than a fattier cut. Similarly, many game animals are very lean, & extreme care must usually be taken not to overcook them. Therefore, the example of elk steaks, cited by the OP, is simply incorrect. If anything, they should be cooked less than a fatty cow steak, or they risk getting very tough, without any concomitant benefits. And when the OP mentions that “a rare steak doesn’t always imply that the steak is going to be juicy & tender”, that is absolutely true. But that is the fault of the meat itself & won’t be improved by more direct-contact, high-heat cooking. That will only make it worse, not better, as the proteins denature & the fibres contract. A tough or extremely lean cut can only be made more tender by a different cooking method that breaks down the fibres & adds moisture &/or fat over a long period.
This last point is a controversial one, & I’m guessing I may take flack for it in the comments. Most people who prefer steaks well done don’t truly do so because of flavour. There are exceptions, but in a large number of cases, the preference is driven by fear. It may fear of the health consequences of undercooked meat. It may be fear of the red juice/blood that a rare or medium rare steak produces. (Note: the red juices that are seen in a rare or medium rare steak are NOT blood. All the blood of the cow is actually removed during processing, long before it’s a steak. The red juices are mostly water, with a little bit of myoglobin from the muscle tissue that loses its redness as heat is applied, but does not actually go away.) It may be fear of the texture of softer meat. But it’s fear of some kind, more often than not. And open-minded eaters will often make fun of timid ones, just as people tease others about any kind of phobia that seems unreasonable to them. Update 6/4/16: A quick scan of the comments thus far seems to clearly support this assertion, with several commenters describing their “icky” & fearful reactions to certain normal qualities of a properly cooked steak. A few even report digestive differences, though these are highly unlikely to be actual physiological symptoms rather than cultural or psychological ones.
*When saying “best”, I am referring to maximizing qualities that most (but obviously not all) eaters would consider desirable, such as robust/complex flavour, tender but not mushy texture, appealing aroma, juiciness, etc. These things are pretty universal, & with the exception of those who have specific phobias, most people agree on what they are. Those who like well done steaks aren’t usually doing so because they prefer the meat to be tough or dry. They do it for other reasons, many of which stem from fears of various types.
Beef Wellington
Ingredients:
The Tenderloin
1.2kgs beef tenderloin, trimmed
Kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper
2 tbsp plus ½ teaspoon vegetable or canola oil
2 tbsp prepared horseradish
1 tbsp Dijon, or hot English mustard
The Duxelles
500gms button, cremini, shiitake, & portabella
4 tbsp unsalted butter
2 medium shallots, finely diced (about ½ cup)
2 tbsp finely minced fresh thyme leaves
½ cup Cognac or other brandy
½ cup heavy cream
The Pâté
500gms pâté
The Moisture Barrier
1 sheet phyllo dough
125gms prosciutto
The Puff Pastry
Flour, for dusting
250gms puff pastry, thawed
1 egg, beaten
Coarse sea salt
1 bunch finely minced chives
Method:
Using butcher’s twine, tie tenderloin at 1-inch intervals. Trim ends of twine. Season liberally with salt & pepper.
Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a cast iron or stainless steel skillet over high heat until smoking. Add tenderloin & cook without moving until well-browned on first side, about 2 minutes. Rotate tenderloin & continue cooking until browned on all sides, about 10 minutes total. Transfer to a large plate.
Combine horseradish, mustard, & 1 teaspoon black pepper in a small bowl. When tenderloin is cool enough to handle, cut off & discard twine, then rub on all surfaces with horseradish/mustard mixture. Place in refrigerator, uncovered.
Soak the shitake mushrooms in water to rehydrate for 1-2 hours, drain & add to the other mushrooms. Place half the mushrooms in the bowl of a food processor & pulse until finely chopped, scraping down sides & redistributing mushrooms as necessary. Transfer to a bowl & repeat with remaining process.
Heat butter in a skillet over medium-high heat until melted. Add mushrooms & cook, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms have exuded all their liquid. Continue cooking until mushrooms begin to brown & become aromatic. Add shallots & thyme & cook, stirring frequently, until softened.
Add brandy & deglaze skillet. Continue to cook until brandy has reduced by ¾. Add heavy cream & continue to cook, stirring frequently until mixture is thick & collects in one large mass. Season to taste & transfer to a bowl & refrigerator.
After adding some heavy cream (which reduces down & binds the mushrooms into a thick paste—the better to adhere to the meat with—I add a dash of soy sauce. Soy sauce, with its high levels of glutamic acid, is a natural umami-bomb. It makes things taste meatier, more savory. It makes the mushrooms taste more like mushrooms, if you will, & the tenderloin more like an entire steer & all of its flavour compressed down into a single tenderloin-sized package.
Take your time, mushrooms can contain 90% water depending on the specific type of mushroom and its growing conditions, we are adding brandy & culinary cream to further complement the flavour profile, but it is important to reduce all liquids to the extent where your duxelles mix is almost dry”.
Prepare the pâté as below & refrigerate.
Lay a double layer of plastic wrap about 2 feet long & 1 foot wide on a cutting board. Lay phyllo dough on top of plastic wrap. Shingle prosciutto on top of phyllo to create a thin, even, overlapping layer, leaving a 2-inch border along the bottom & top of the phyllo dough. Spread mushroom mixture evenly over prosciutto layer.
Place tenderloin along the very bottom edge of the prosciutto/mushroom layer & apply pâté evenly over top of tenderloin. Carefully roll tenderloin using the plastic wrap to help tighten it as you roll. Once beef is completely rolled up, re-wrap with more plastic wrap, twisting the ends to make sure roll is very tight. Return to refrigerator for at least 2 hours to completely chill.
Dust board or countertop lightly with flour. Spread puff pastry on board &, using a rolling pin, roll it into a rectangle at least 4 inches wider than the beef roll on its shorter side.
Unwrap beef roll & place along very bottom edge of puff pastry with the pâté side facing up. Brush 6 inches of puff pastry just above beef roll with beaten egg. Carefully roll the beef in the puff pastry until it is completely wrapped. You should end up with the pâté facing up, with the puff pastry seam meeting on the bottom. Trim pastry with a sharp knife.
Fold sides of puff pastry protruding from either end of the beef roll towards the centre, then fold the top flaps down. Trim off the bottom flaps carefully.
Roll entire beef roll over so that the bottom is facing up, then fold up the end flaps to seal completely.
The Beef:
Tenderloin is emphatically not about fat & flavour; it’s essentially a very boring cut of blandness. Starting at the rib cage & extending to the sirloin, this non weight bearing fillet contains very little connective tissue or fat & is generally accompanied with a sauce due to its mild taste. What it does bring to the table is guaranteed tenderness. A Beef Wellington is all about introducing numerous aromatics & layering of difference fats & seasoning to drastically enhance the flavour profile. Let’s summarize exactly how we are going to complement our tenderloin:
1. Seasoning: Prior to tying your tenderloin to help maintain its shape, applying the first layer of salt is important; it offer flavour & encourages the mailard reaction when searing
2. Searing: will seal the tenderloin by adding a crust to the outer layer, while promoting the magical chemical reaction between the amino acids & reducing sugars
3. Mustard & Horseradish: adds both acidity & heat.
4. Prosciutto: if ever you doubted the Beef Wellington’s integrity, any hesitancy must surely have been dispelled. Prosciutto epitomizes luxury; defined by its delicate sweet signature flavour, a direct result of the combination of salt, air, & time, this addition to our dish adds umami in abundance.
5. Duxelles: with the addition of cream & butter, we are layering the fat component, together with the mushrooms & brandy, what was once a boring tenderloin is starting to get a significant make over.
6. Chicken Liver Pâté: the smooth texture of the purée pâté will slowly share its flavours as it renders down & distributes aromatics with the fillet.
The Mushrooms (Duxelles): We are creating a classic; the Wellington deserves to be treated with respect; now is not the time to compromise quality of produce used nor is it time to consider only one variety of mushroom as all offer a different flavour profile & complexity.
Button mushrooms, shiitake (dried), & portobello all are easily found in supermarkets, all bring a little something to the party. No need to stop at these three varieties though; use a selection of mushrooms available to you but it is important to consider the preparation; get this down pat & where just about there.
Refer above to a comprehensive summary of preparation method.
Chicken Liver Pâté
Ingredient
80gms unsalted butter, divided
80gms minced shallot
500gms chicken livers
Kosher salt
1 clove garlic, minced
2 tbsp capers
1 tsp dried thyme
1 tsp anchovy paste, optional
50mls brandy
50mls culinary cream
The Pâté
Trim the connective tissue & fat: Trim any fat or connective tissue from the livers & discard.
Brown the butter: Heat 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large sauté pan on medium heat & let the butter brown, about 3 to 5 minutes. Do not let it burn.
Sauté the shallots & livers: Sweat the shallots & sauté until fragrant, add the livers & lightly season & continue to cook for a further 2-3 minutes.
Add the capers, thyme, garlic, & anchovy paste: Add the capers, thyme, garlic, anchovy paste & brandy & reduce by ⅔ as you lift the fond from the base of the sauté pan. Remove from heat & let cool a touch.
Purée in a food processor: Put the mixture into a food processor or blender & pulse a few times to combine. Add the remaining butter & the cream & purée. Cool & refrigerate until required.
The Pastry
Store bought or homemade? The task of making a Beef Wellimgton can be a laborious task, it is not a difficult process but there are numerous components to consider, all of which we have discussed above. The assembly is a “work in progress”, as you negotiate all the procedures to complete your mis en place.
It is a time consuming task & unless you want to prove a point & feed your ego, store bought puff pastry ticks all the boxes. Minimize the work load, your constructing Beef Wellington for goodness’s sake, there are so many different components to this recipe. Ease the load & apply the KISS principle & invest in some Pampas ½ puff
However, whether you make you make your own or take a quick trip down to Water Front & pick up a few sheets of frozen puff. It is appropriate to investigate the science behind puff pastry & how it works prior to rolling the Beef Wellington:
Puff pastry is a type of pastry that puffs up into hundreds of thin layers when baked in a hot oven. The magic behind puff pastry lies in its unique structure & the principles of moisture transformation, gluten development, high heat, & layering.
Layering: Puff pastry is made by layering dough & fat, preferably a hard compound butter specifically designed to have a high melt point. Each layer consists of a thin layer of dough sandwiched between a layer of fat.
Fat Melting: When you put puff pastry in the oven, the fat in between those dough layers melts & it will sit in the actual dough itself.
Steam Formation: Also, moisture, from the butter as well as from the dough, starts evaporating as the pastry becomes warmer. The fat prevents the dough layers from interacting with one another, so they can’t form one large structure.
Expansion: The air can easily sit in between those dough layers since they weren’t holding onto one another anyway. As a result, the space between the layer expands & you get those air pockets.
Baking: The principles of moisture transformation, gluten development, high heat, & layering all come together to create that irresistible texture & flavour.
So, the puff in the puff pastry is actually steam, & the hundreds of flaky layers are a result of the water in the butter turning into steam in the hot oven, causing the pastry to lift & separate. This is why it’s crucial that there are so many layers of butter
The Assembly:
Meat consists of natural water, muscle, connective tissue, fat & bone; our tenderloin has none of the above apart from water & plenty of it. As discussed, our tenderloin is one lean mother, & leaner cuts contain more water by weight than those with a high fat content & copious amounts of connective tissue.
Constructing a beef Wellington is not difficult, but we are faced with two major issue that will arise during the baking process. Moisture retention is paramount if we are to avoid producing a product that does not come close to what you envisaged due to excessive leakage.
We have to come up with ways to protect the pastry case from what is guaranteed to ooze from the meat, pâté & duxelles.
Where there is a problem, there is always a solution; consider the facts:
1. You will sear the tenderloin to retain its water content, but that’s all your going to do. At worst, you are going to sear to achieve a medium rare tenderloin, which will affective consign your very expensive tenderloin to medium well done once you have cooked the pastry case.
2. Ideally, a rare tenderloin is the objective, but this presents numerous concerns because of the high moisture level. These juices need to be contained to prevent the pastry from leaking.
The second problem is one of timing. Puff pastry takes at least half an hour to 40 minutes to properly brown & puff—more than enough time for a tenderloin to overcook.
The Moisture Barrier
Let’s cut to the chase; the objective is to create a moisture barrier to absorb any leakage from the tenderloin, pâté & duxelles, the tenderloin contains a huge 72% of water, while the pâté & duxelles have a fat components added, pâté has both butter & cream, the duxelles have butter; all subject to leakage as heat is applied.
Traditionally, the meat was rolled in a crêpe with a shingled layer of prosciutto on top; however, though intentions were genuine, neither contained any moisture leakage with the crêpe becoming soggy & unpalatable. The prosciutto adds a great flavour profile but nothing else.
Serious Eats culinary consultants J. Kenji López-Alt suggests the following solution:
“I suggest a much simpler, more effective, and time-saving alternative: prosciutto and a sheet of phyllo dough.
The phyllo pastry is pretty much custom made for the task. Phyllo pastry is ultra-thin, but strong, designed to wrap moist fillings without leaking.
I use a single sheet of phyllo, shingle on my prosciutto, spread my duxelles over that, and we’re good to go”.
Traditionalists will cringe but where there is a better alternative to an age-old concern; we would be remiss not to consider ways & means to solve this challenging problem. We may just have been offered a great alternative.
Wrapping:
The process used is similar to making a sushi roll; instead of a sushi mat, we place 2-3 layer of clingwrap on a board & then the “moisture barrier” a single layer of phyllo pastry & prosciutto on top of which we add a generous & importantly even layer of flavoursome enriched duxelles.
Time to add the well chilled & seared horseradish & mustard encrusted tenderloin to the phyllo bed of prosciutto & duxelles on top of which we place the pâté. Placing the beef at the lower edge closest to you & commence to roll.
We are layering a unique flavour profile which adds texture & complexity to the Beef Wellington; all individual components contribute both in flavour & presentation; most of which have stood the test of time since first being introduced to the English palate in honour of the first Duke of Wellington, Arthur Wellesley after defeating Napoleon Bonaparte in the Battle of Waterloo of which lasted a single day only, Sunday, 18 June 1815. “They certainly didn’t procrastinate in those days!
Wrap the Wellington as tightly as possibly in clingfilm, using several layers & twisting the ends. This step is absolutely vital, as it’s what will determine the shape of the Wellington in its final form.
This is where we now address the second problem—not overcooking the meat while finishing off the pastry properly. To solve this problem, it’s a simple as making sure that the beef is completely chilled before it gets wrapped. At this stage, the whole roll should go back into the fridge for at least half an hour, & up to a couple days, to get it thoroughly chilled.
Baking & Carving
There’s nothing worse than undercooked puff pastry—gummy & bland—to get good results, you must use a relatively high heat. This initial blast of high heat causes the moisture in the layers of butter within the pastry to suddenly expand, forcing the layers of pastry apart, & giving it its light, flaky texture.
You may think that what with our overcooked beef problem, high heat is not the way to go, but in fact, using higher heat will help cook the meat slower than a more moderate heat. How so?
Vapor makes a great insulator. That’s why wooden houses have spaces within their walls, or how a Thermos manages to conserve its temperature so well. By causing the puff pastry to quickly expand, you introduce plenty of air space within its structure, which will in turn give it better insulative properties, allowing the beef within to cook more gently.
At 218°C, a chilled tenderloin will take between 30 & 40 minutes to reach an internal temperature of 43 to 49°C for rare to medium-rare. This is precisely how long you need to properly brown your puff pastry. The benefits of science!
Classic Beef Carpaccio
Ingredients:
250g piece best-quality beef tenderloin, trimmed
2 tablespoons truffle oil (see note) or extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons toasted pine nuts
20gms capers
2 tablespoons finely chopped chives
½ cup (40g) shaved parmesan
Wild rocket leaves & lemon wedges, to serve
Method:
Wrap the beef tightly in plastic wrap & freeze for 30 minutes (this will make it easier to thinly slice).
Unwrap the beef & very thinly slice, using a sharp knife or ask your butcher to prepare the Carpaccio using a meat slicer. Place the slices of beef between sheets of plastic wrap & flatten them out with a rolling pin if necessary.
Arrange 4 or 5 slices of beef on each serving plate & drizzle with oil. Season well with sea salt & freshly ground black pepper, scatter with pine nuts, capers, chives & shaved parmesan. Serve with rocket leaves & lemon wedges.
Beef Chuck Overview
Chuck is one of the most common cuts. It’s a flavourful cut that comes from the shoulder & neck area of the cow, with rich marbling throughout. Chuck has plenty to offer both beginner & experienced meat lovers alike.
When cooked right, the chuck can be incredibly tender & juicy. It’s best to slow-cook the meat for several hours or use moist-heat cooking methods like braising or stewng. This gives the connective tissues enough time to break down, so you don’t end up with tough chunks of unappetizing beef!
Chuck steak is a cut of beef that is part of the chuck primal, which is a large section of meat from the shoulder area of the cow. This part of the animal gets a lot of exercise, making the muscles somewhat tough. However, there are parts that are more tender, such as the top blade, which becomes very tender once the gristle is removed. There are a number of intersecting muscles that can cause the grain of chuck meat to change several times in a single cut. Being mindful of this will help you to select & carve these cuts so they are at their best.
The different types of chuck steak are distinguished by where they are cut from in the chuck primal, as well as the amount of cartilage that runs through the meat, determining whether the steak is tender or not.
Boeuf Bourguignon
Ingredients:
1 tbsp vegetable oil
bacon, cut into ¼-inch lardons
1.5kgs boneless beef chuck, cut into 2-inch pieces
Kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper, to taste
2 yellow onions, finely chopped
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
75gms all-purpose flour
75mls cognac
500gms dry red wine (**preferably Burgundy if available)
500gms beef stock
4 parsley stems
4 thyme sprigs
2 bay leaves
2 only celery stalks
2 tablespoons butter
500gms cremini /field mushrooms
500gms pearl onions, peeled
2 carrots, diced into ½-inch pieces
Freshly chopped parsley, for garnish
Method:
In a large Dutch oven, heat the vegetable oil over medium-high heat. Add the bacon lardons & cook until golden brown. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to a plate. Season the beef with salt & pepper, then add it to the pot. Cook, turning as needed, until golden brown. Transfer the beef to the plate with the bacon.
Add the onions & garlic to the pot & cook until soft & caramelized, 5 minutes. Sprinkle in the flour & cook for another 2 minutes. Add the cognac & stir, scraping up any fond that has developed on the bottom of the pot. Slowly pour in the wine & the beef stock, stirring until incorporated.
Using butcher’s twine, tie together the parsley stems, thyme, bay leaves & celery, then add the bundle to the pot, along with the reserved beef & bacon. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer. Cook, covered, until the beef is tender & the sauce is thickened, 2 hours.
Meanwhile, in a large skillet, heat the butter over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms, onions & carrots, & cook until golden brown, 10 to 12 minutes. Stir into the braising beef for the last 30 minutes of cooking.
Season with salt & pepper, then divide between bowls. Garnish with parsley & serve.
Burgundy is a type of red wine made from Pinot Noir grapes. It has a rich & complex flavour that can enhance many dishes. However, if you don’t have Burgundy or you prefer not to use alcohol, there are some substitutes that you can use instead. Some of the best substitutes for Burgundy wine are:
Merlot is another popular red wine that can serve as a perfect replacement for Burgundy. You can use it in every recipe to swap them & the taste of Merlot won’t overpower the other ingredients.
Cranberry juice on its own can be a good replacement for Burgundy. If you don’t have any wine in your cabinet, then this type of juice is the ideal replacement. Even though it’s a non-alcoholic substitute, you can still add a bit of vinegar to add acidity to the taste but it’s not necessary.
A combination of red wine vinegar & grape juice can mimic the flavour & acidity of Burgundy wine. You can use equal parts of both ingredients & adjust the amount according to your preference
**A lardon is a small strip or cube of fatty bacon or pork fat that is used to flavour savory food & salads. It is a common ingredient in French cuisine, where it is also used for larding, which means threading it with a needle into meats that are to be braised or roasted. Lardons have a rich & salty taste that can enhance many dishes, such as quiche, salad, soup, pasta, & more.
Hungarian Goulash
Ingredients:
1 litre homemade chicken stock
4 x 7gms powdered gelatine, bloom
2 tbsp vegetable oil
1.25kgs whole boneless beef chuck roast
Kosher salt & freshly ground cracked black pepper
4 medium carrots
2 celery stalks
To be discarded halfway through the cooking process
4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
60gms sweet Hungarian paprika
1 tbsp soy sauce
1 tbsp fish sauce
2 bay leaves
4 sprigs thyme
450gms potatoes, peeled & cubed
4 medium carrots
2 celery stalks
1 large onion, thinly sliced
1 to 2 tbsp apple cider
fresh parsley leaves, for serving
4 medium carrots
2 celery stalks
To be discarded halfway through the cooking process
Method:
Bloom the gelatine in chicken stock & set aside. Adjust oven rack to lower position & preheat oven to 150°C. In a large Dutch oven, heat oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Cut whole boneless beef chuck into steaks & season with salt & pepper & add to Dutch oven. Cook, turning occasionally, until beef is well browned on 2 sides. Transfer beef to a rimmed baking sheet & set aside.
Add diced carrots to Dutch oven & cook, stirring, until well browned on all sides, lowering heat as necessary to prevent scorching. Season to taste with salt & pepper, then transfer to a bowl & set aside. Add split carrot, celery stalks, onion, peppers, & garlic & cook until onion & peppers are softened & lightly browned.
Add paprika & cook, stirring, until fragrant. Add chicken stock/gelatine mixture, followed by soy sauce, fish sauce, bay leaves, & thyme.
Cut seared steaks into 1 ½- to 2-inch chunks & transfer to a large bowl. Toss with flour. Add beef & any juices accumulated in the tray to the Dutch oven. Stir to combine & return to a simmer over medium heat. Transfer to oven, cover with lid partially open, & cook until beef is starting to become tender, about 1 ½ hours. Liquid should remain at a slow, steady simmer throughout. Adjust oven temperature if necessary, during cooking.
Remove stew from oven. Using tongs, discard carrot, celery, thyme, & bay leaves. Add potatoes & reserved sautéed carrots, celery & onions to stew, return to oven, & continue to cook, partially covered, until beef, potatoes, celery, & carrots are tender & broth has thickened, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Using a ladle, skim off any excess fat from the surface of the stew & discard.
Remove stew from oven, place over a burner & add tomato paste & simmer for up to 15 minutes to reduce to desired consistency. Add 1 to 2 tablespoons apple cider (to taste). Season to taste with salt & pepper if necessary. Serve immediately, sprinkled with parsley. Alternatively, let cool overnight or refrigerate for up to 5 days & reheat to serve.
Osso Buco (Italian Braised Veal Shanks)
Ingredients:
6 (1- to 1 ½-inch-thick) pieces osso buco (veal shanks) 1.8kg
Kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper, divided
140gms all-purpose flour
60ml extra-virgin olive oil, plus more if needed
1 tbsp unsalted butter (½ ounce; 15g)
1 large yellow onion, minced (12 ounces; 340g) (see note)
2 medium carrots, minced (6 ounces; 170g)
1 celery rib, minced (4 ounces; 120g)
3 medium cloves garlic, minced
1 (28-ounce; 800g) can peeled whole tomatoes, seeded & drained, tomato flesh crushed by hand
1 cup (235ml) dry white wine
175 mls homemade chicken stock
3 fresh thyme sprigs
1 bay leaf
For the Gremolata:
2 tablespoons (about 20g) finely minced flat-leaf parsley leaves & tender stems
Zest of 1 lemon, finely minced
6 medium cloves garlic, finely minced
Method:
Preheat oven to 165°C. Season veal shanks all over with salt & pepper.
Add flour to a shallow bowl. In a large Dutch oven, heat olive oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Working in batches, lightly dredge shanks in flour, shaking off excess, & add to Dutch oven. Cook shanks, turning occasionally, until lightly browned on both sides; lower heat as necessary at any point to prevent scorching. Transfer browned shanks to a platter & repeat with remaining shanks; add more oil if necessary.
Add butter to Dutch oven, along with onion, carrot, celery, & garlic. Cook, stirring, over medium-high heat until vegetables are softened & just starting to turn a light golden colour, about 6 minutes.
Add tomatoes, wine, & stock to Dutch oven, along with veal shanks & any accumulated juices. Try to arrange the shanks in as even a layer as possible. The liquid should nearly but not totally cover the shanks. Add thyme & bay leaf & bring to a simmer.
Prepare a parchment paper lid or more commonly referred to as a “cartouche”. This technique is often used in slow-cooking methods to trap in steam while preventing unwanted condensation. Cook for 2 hours.
Meanwhile, for the Gremolata: In a small bowl, stir together parsley, lemon zest, & garlic. Set aside.
Remove cartouche from shanks & continue cooking until they are fork-tender. If the Dutch oven becomes too dry, add more stock as needed to keep it moist; evaporation & reduction are exactly would is required, but ample cooking liquid is also required to maintain a consistent cook. During the last 20 minutes of cooking, stir in 1 to 2 teaspoons (5 to 10ml) gremolata, depending on how strong you want the lemon & garlic flavour to impact the shanks. Adjust to required consistency, discard thyme & bay leaf & season with salt & pepper if necessary.
Serve shanks on plates, spooning braising sauce on top & garnish each plate with a sprinkle of gremolata. Osso buco is traditionally served with risotto alla Milanese.
Gremolata is a classic Italian condiment that consists of finely minced parsley, garlic, & lemon zest. Traditionally served with Osso Bucco, but is an excellent accompaniment to lamb, fish & seafood dishes.
Beef Round Overview
Beef Braciole
Ingredients:
For the Braciole:
½ cup panko breadcrumbs
¼ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
1 cup flat-leaf parsley leaves, finely chopped
¼ cup pine nuts, lightly toasted & roughly chopped
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium garlic clove, minced
¾ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, divided
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
675gms top round beef roast, pre-sliced thin
¾ tsp sea salt.
6 large, thin slices prosciutto
For the Sauce:
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 small onion, diced
½ tsp sea salt
3 medium garlic cloves, minced
120mls dry white wine
850gms whole peeled tomatoes, crushed
240mls water
Method:
Arrange oven rack in middle position & preheat oven to 175°C.
For the Braciole: In a medium bowl, add breadcrumbs, Parmigiano-Reggiano, parsley, pine nuts, olive oil, garlic, ¼ teaspoon black pepper, & red pepper flakes & stir until well combined. Set aside.
Lay steak slices 3 inches apart on a cutting board & cover with plastic wrap. Using a meat mallet, flatten slices into rough rectangles measuring no more than ¼ inch thick.
Sprinkle both sides of steaks with salt & remaining ½ teaspoon black pepper. Spread the reserved breadcrumb mixture evenly over steaks, then place 1 slice of prosciutto over each breadcrumb-topped steak, folding prosciutto to fit & pressing firmly into steak. Being careful to keep filling in place & starting from a short end of each steak, roll each steak to form a small bundle. Tie each bundle with 2 pieces of kitchen twine to secure.
For the Sauce: In a large sauté pan, heat oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add braciole bundles & brown on all sides, 6 to 8 minutes total. Transfer browned braciole to a clean plate; set aside.
Add onion & salt to the now-empty pan & cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until translucent. Add garlic & cook, until just fragrant. Add wine & deglaze pan, & cook until mixture reduces by half. Add tomatoes & water & nestle the browned braciole bundles into the sauce & bring to a simmer.
Cover the pan with an oven-safe lid or aluminium foil. Place the pan on a rimmed baking sheet & transfer to the oven. Cook, covered, flipping braciole halfway through, for 90 minutes. Carefully remove the lid, flip the braciole again, & continue to cook until the meat is fully tender & sauce thickened to gravy-like consistency, 15 to 45 minutes longer.
Season sauce with salt to taste. Use scissors to cut off twine around each bundle. Transfer braciole to a large serving platter or individual plates & serve.