What’s the difference between galantines & ballotines? Galantines & ballotines are both pâté stuffed into poultry skin, rolled & cooked. They’re different in the cooking methods & serving temperature. Galantines are poached & served cold. Ballotines are roasted & served warm. However, there’s disagreement about whether galantines & ballotines have a different cooking methods & about the serving temperature for ballotines.
What is a galantine? A galantine is a French stuffed poultry dish; the bird is deboned & layered with forcemeat, inlays &/or a vegetable stuffing & rolled tightly, typically into a tube shape & wrapped in cheesecloth, muslin or plastic wrap. Galantines are slow cooked by poaching, generally in a gelatinous cooking liquid, cooled & sliced & coated in the aspic jelly.
What is a ballotine? A ballotine is a baked version of a galantine. It’s generally roasted, served hot with a jus or sauce of your choice. It can be treated very similar to a galantine & rolled into a spiral similar to a roulade.
Ballotines can also be made with a full chicken leg instead of the whole chicken or with other meats. The chicken leg version is called a petite ballotine & is a single-serve dish.
Foie gras
Ingredients
1 (1 lb) lobe duck liver (or goose liver)
1 tsp salt
½ tsp ground black pepper
3 tbsp Sauternes (or other sweet white wine)
What are the origins of Foie Gras
Foie gras is very popular in Alsace & in the Southwest of France, two regions which claim its paternity.
The Midi-Pyrenees & the Périgord regions are also two regions that have received the PGI certification (Protected Geographical Indication) since 2000. Duck foie gras from southwestern France also holds the Label Rouge (Red label), a high distinction of quality.
Admittedly, France is today the epicentre of foie gras production but this delicacy has very ancient origins dating back to the Egyptians.
What is Foie Gras
French cuisine defines foie gras as duck liver or goose liver, fattened by gavage or force-feeding. France is the largest producer of foie gras in the world, with an average of 20,000 tons produced each year (about 80% of the world market). It is followed by Hungary & Bulgaria.
Foie gras reached the pinnacle of its celebrity status thanks to Louis XVI & to the recipe of pâté de foie gras made famous by chef Jean Pierre Clause. Italian composer Gioacchino Rossini had the renowned Tournedos Rossini named in his honour which appears below.
Tournedos Rossini w/ Goose Foie Gras
Ingredients
4 thick slices of ciabatta bread with crust
3 slices of beef tenderloin, tied
60 g butter
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
Périgueux sauce
1 x 100 g can of foie gras block
Coarse Guérande salt
Freshly ground pepper
Method
Toast the 4 slices of ciabatta bread.
Remove the block of foie gras from the fridge & cut four slices lengthwise.
Season the meat with salt & pepper to taste.
Prepare the Périgueux sauce as below.
Périgueux sauce
This rich, classic sauce is flavored with Madeira & pungent, earthy black truffles, which are a specialty of Périgueux, a city in the Perigord region of southwestern France.
Ingredients
60mls Demi-Glace
2 canned truffles, minced
1 tbsp truffle brining liquid
1 tbsp Madeira
1 tbsp cold unsalted butter
Salt & ground black pepper
Method
Bring the Demi-Glace to a simmer over low heat in a small saucepan. Add the truffles, brining liquid, & Madeira & simmer for 1-2 minutes.
Whisk in the butter & season to taste with salt & pepper.
Melt 30g of butter with 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil in a hot frying pan. Sear the tournedos for 2 minutes on one side, then on the other. Remove from heat & rest. Sear the foie gras slices in a non-stick frying pan, without fat, just to warm them up.
Arrange the plates with a slice of toasted ciabatta bread, on which you place the Tournedos Rossini tenderloins adding the rendered juices to the Périgueux sauce. Place the foie gras on top of each tenderloin & pour over sauce. Serve immediately.
How to make foie gras at home
A quality foie gras is first & foremost a liver that is carefully deveined by hand. However, a degree of skill is required to devein duck livers & if there is any hesitancy, ask your butcher to perform this task.
Soak the foie gras in a large amount of milk for 1-2 hours after deveining to cleanse & remove all impurities. Remove, wash in cold water & pat dry.
Dissolve the salt in the wine, then add pepper. Pour this mixture over the foie gras & let stand covered for 12 hours in the fridge.
Preheat oven to 120°C. Place a deep sided tray on the bottom rack & half fill with boiling water
Arrange the marinated foie gras pieces & place in a terrine. Cover & bake by placing the terrine dish in the water bath. Lower the oven temperature to 100°C, & cook for 50 minutes. The internal temperature of the foie gras must be 50°C.
*Please note: Duck liver, like other organ meats, can contain toxins. The liver is the primary organ for removing toxins from the blood in animals, as in humans. However, this does not necessarily mean the liver accumulates more toxins than other tissues.
As for cooking duck liver, it’s crucial to cook it thoroughly to kill harmful microorganisms that may be present, such as Campylobacter. Lightly searing the surface is not sufficient as Campylobacter was found in 84% of raw chicken meat samples tested in Australia. Studies have also shown that livers & other offal are often contaminated on both the surface & internally.
The safest way to prepare dishes like pâté is to follow recipes that require baking the whole dish in an oven or water bath, often at temperatures above 150°C for up to two hours. These methods should allow the livers to reach internal temperatures that would kill this microorganisms
For duck meat in general, the internal temperature of the thickest part should reach 75°C when tested with a meat thermometer.
Please remember that these are general guidelines & the exact cooking time & temperature can depend on the specific recipe & cooking method. Always ensure that the liver is cooked thoroughly before consumption.
Allow cooling. Remove excess fat & place in the fridge with a weight on top of the terrine dish for 24 hours.
Foie gras can then be enjoyed immediately, or even better within 5 days so that it reaches optimum maturity.
Why Faux” Foie Gras” France is the largest producer of foie gras in the world, responsible for approximately 80% of global production1. However, the annual production volume has fluctuated in recent years due to various factors, including outbreaks of avian flu.
In 2021, the production of duck & goose foie gras in France dropped to approximately 12,320 tonnes. This was a decrease from previous years; where annual production remained at a steady 19,000 tonnes.
Gavage is a method where “foie gras” producers force feed their ducks & geese to increase the size of their livers for the production of foie gras. This practice involves feeding ducks or geese large amounts of feed through a tube inserted into their throats, causing their livers to enlarge. Foie gras is a popular & well-known delicacy in French cuisine1. However, this practice is controversial due to animal welfare & human concerns. Trends indicate the consumption is falling due to these centuries old practises & alternative sources are being investigated by chefs & household consumers alike base on ethical reasons.
The Faux Foie Gras recipe below uses chicken livers instead; I still wanted the natural gelatinous properties the livers offer, I am always using duck fat but derived from carcass & skin, not from the livers as this will help duplicate the flavours I wish to achieve. Review the method of preparation below, I am not a regular consumer of foie gras & certainly not an expert on flavour profile, but I believe we have come pretty close to mimicking an authentic foie gras.
Faux Foie Gras Pâté
Ingredients:
500gms chicken livers
300mls duck fat
150mls Culinary cream
Kosher salt & cracked black pepper, to taste.
¼ tsp each of thyme, sage, oregano & rosemary
300gms raw cashews
150g walnuts toasted
100gms button mushrooms, sliced
200g lentils cooked
85gms refined cocoa butter melted
3 tbsp sweet white miso
2 tbsp & 1/2 tsp cognac
2 tbsp nutritional yeast
2 tbsp tahini
2 tbsp Beetroot purée
1 tsp truffle oil
sea salt, to taste
cracked black pepper
5 only bloomed gelatine sheets
Method:
Remove all sinew from the chicken livers & soak in milk for an hour or so. Pan fry in batches using 200mls of the duck fat to infuse flavours. Repeat the process until all livers are lightly cooked, remove & cool & retain the duck fat which we will clarify shortly.
Place livers in a food processor with culinary cream, Kosher salt, cracked black pepper & herb blend & pulse until smooth. Remove & chill until required
Run the duck fat through a fine mesh chinois to extract all impurities, repeat to process but line the chinois with cheesecloth to further cleanse the duck fat. Set aside at room temperature.
Soak the cashews & toasted walnuts overnight or alternatively, bring a large pot of water to a boil, pour over the nuts in a bowl, & let sit for 3 hours. Drain & rinse.
Soak the lentils & cook in chicken stock for an hour or until tender & soft. Drain & rinse.
Dry roast the mushrooms to extract all the moisture.
Add the cashews & walnuts to the bowl of a blender with the 100mls duck fat, white miso, cognac, nutritional yeast, tahini, beetroot puree, mushrooms & truffle oil & pulse until smooth.
Melt the cocoa butter in a small saucepan & add to the blender with the lentils. Season with salt & pepper & blend until completely smooth, scraping down the sides from time to time. The mixture will be very thick & it will be necessary to pulse in small batches.
Fold in the chicken liver pâté, the cashew/walnut puree & the lentil mix & 100mls of the duck fat. Place in the refrigerator for 6-8 hours & add to either your preprepared mason jars & or PET bottle mould.
The fat content of duck liver can vary, but the oil extracted from it during cooking is primarily composed of saturated & unsaturated fats. Duck fat contains 35.7% saturates, 50.5% monounsaturated (high in linoleic acid), & 13.7% polyunsaturated fats, which include Omega-6 & Omega-3 essential oils.
When cooking duck liver, it’s common to sear it with a high smoke-point oil such as grapeseed, canola, rice bran, refined safflower oil, or even avocado oil. This method helps to achieve a crispy exterior while keeping the inside tender & flavourful.
However, the exact fat ratio of the oil extracted from the duck liver during cooking can depend on several factors, including the cooking method, the diet of the duck, & the specific part of the liver being used. Therefore, it might not be possible to provide an exact percentage without specific analysis.
Moulding your faux foie gras: I use two options;
Mason jars are ideal airtight containers to store; in the smaller 226mls individual serve jars, either spoon or pipe the faux foie gras leaving adequate head space to add 50mls of clarified duck fat
Alternatively, using a straight sided plastic PET bottle, slice through the top of the bottle with a sharp knife, cut down the centre & secure with duct tape prior to adding your pâté.
Let set for 24 hours, remove the duct tape & demould. Slice to thickness required.
Sterilize Your Mason Jars: Place the empty jars right-side-up in a large pot. Pour hot (but not boiling) water to cover the jars completely, ensuring that the water is one inch above the top of the jars.
Gradually increase the heat to start boiling. The ideal boiling duration to sterilize Mason jars is 10 minutes1. After boiling, turn off the heat. You can leave them in hot water for up to one hour if you are not ready to begin the canning recipe. Then, using jar lifters or tongs, remove the jars from the pot, drain well, & set aside to dry.
1. Prepare Your Pâté: Prepare your pâté according to your recipe. Make sure it’s ready to be canned immediately after the jars have been sterilized.
2. Fill Your Jars: Fill the sterilized jars with the prepared pâté, leaving some headspace at the top of the jar. This allows for expansion during the canning process.
3. Seal Your Jars: Place the lids on the jars & screw them on until they are secure but not overly tight.
4. Process Your Jars: Lower the filled Mason jars carefully into the canning pot. Once the water begins boiling, start your timer. The processing time varies from recipe to recipe.
5. Cool & Store: After processing, carefully remove the jars from the pot & let them cool. Once cooled, check the seals to ensure they are tight. Store the jars in a cool, dark place
Pâté de Campagne (country pâté)
Ingredients:
250gms Boned pork shoulder, cut into 3cm dice
250gms Boned belly of pork, cut into 3cm dice
250gms Smoked streaky bacon, cut 3cm dice
300gms Pig’s liver, cut into 3cm dice
60gm egg
Salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
6 capers, crushed
1 tsp Five-spice powder
½ tsp Fresh thyme leaves, finely chopped
50mls White wine
2 tbsp Cognac
20gms Pistachios (or almonds or hazelnuts)
1 bay leaf
2 sprigs Fresh thyme
Method
Preparing the meats: In a food processor, using the pulse button, chop the pork shoulder until you have a coarse mince texture. Using a spatula, transfer the meat from the food processor to a large mixing bowl. Proceed in exactly the same way with the belly of pork, the smoked streaky bacon & the liver, combining all the meats together in the bowl.
Preparing the pâté: Add the egg, salt, pepper, juniper berries, five-spice powder, chopped thyme, white wine, cognac & nuts to the bowl & vigorously mix everything together with a large wooden spoon.
Filling the terrine: Tip the mixture into a 23 x 9 x 7.5cm terrine mould &, with the edge of a spoon, press & pack the meat down into the mould.
Tap the terrine a couple of times on the work surface to ensure that there are no air pockets & that the meat is compact.
Press the bay leaf & thyme sprigs onto the top of the mixture.
Cooking the pâté: Cover loosely with a piece of buttered greaseproof paper, then place the terrine in a roasting tin & slide it onto the oven shelf.
Pour boiling water into the roasting tin until it reaches two-thirds of the way up the side of the terrine mould.
Cook for 1 hour. The top of the pate should be slightly rounded. The inside should be 65-70C; if you have a temperature probe, check this.
Remove the terrine from the oven leave it to cool at room temperature for 2 hours, then cover with cling film. Refrigerate for two days, so the flavours mature.
To serve, dip a knife blade in hot water & slide it against the sides of the terrine to loosen the pâté. Turn the terrine upside down on a tray & tap the base to free it from its mould.
Basque Style Terrine
Ingredients:
250gms pork belly (minced)
50gms pork fat (fatback)
250gms pork scotch fillets, cut into small cubes
10gms salt
½ tsp black pepper
1 or 2 pinches of spice mix
1 egg
25mls cream
25gms black cherry jam or cranberry sauce.
3gms chili only
Method
Remove the rind from the pork belly & cut it into rough cubes in preparation for mincing. Cut the pork scotch into medium-sized cubes, approximately 2 cm square (0.8 in).
Pass the pork belly & pork fat through the mincer & place them in the mixing bowl. Add the salt, pepper, & the spice mix. Mix together on medium speed for up to 3 minutes.
Add the egg & the cream, & mix on low speed for a further 2 minutes until the mixture resembles a sticky paste. Then add the pork scotch, jam or cranberry sauce, & chili flakes. Mix for an additional 1-2 minutes on low speed until the mixture becomes cohesive.
Pour the mixture into the terrine dish & press downwards to fill out into the corners & remove any air bubbles. Clean the edges of the dish with a paper towel.
Place the dish under the grill, close to the heating element, until the top of the terrine forms a light brown crust (around 10 minutes).
Cook the terrine uncovered in the oven at 160°C for 45 minutes to an hour. Use a thermometer to monitor cooking & measure the temperature of the core of the terrine after 40 minutes. The terrine is ready when the core temperature reaches 80°C.
Once cooked, cover the dish & leave it to rest at room temperature for 2 hours. Then place it in the fridge & let it rest overnight.
You can eat the terrine the next day or keep it for up to 3 days unsliced & covered in the refrigerator. Ensure you take the terrine out of the fridge at least 30 minutes before slicing & serving.
“Learn the rules like a pro, so you can break them like an artist.” Pablo Picasso
Chicken Liver Pâté
Ingredients:
450gms chicken livers, trimmed
200gms butter, melted
50mls double cream
1 tbsp Armagnac or brandy
coarse sea salt & freshly ground black pepper
To garnish
handful of dried cranberries
8 fresh bay leaves
To serve
hot toast
spicy chutney
Method
Heat a heavy-based frying pan over a medium heat. Pour a little of the melted butter into the hot pan, add half the chicken livers & cook for three minutes. The livers should be cooked on the outside & pink in the middle. Transfer them to a plate & repeat with the rest of the livers.
Transfer the chicken livers to a food processor & blend them for a minute or so until smooth. Then pour in the remaining melted butter & double cream & blend once more. Season with salt & freshly ground black pepper & then stir in the Armagnac.
Transfer the pâté to eight small ramekins, cover with cling film & chill.
When you are ready to serve, uncover the pâtés & garnish with dried cranberries & fresh bay leaves to give them a festive feel. Serve with hot toast & spicy chutney.
Mushroom Pâté
Ingredients:
25g/1oz dried porcini mushrooms
60g/2¼oz cashew nuts
1 tsp olive oil
2 shallots, thinly sliced
125g/4½oz shiitake mushrooms, sliced
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
3 sprigs fresh thyme, leaves picked
2 sprigs fresh rosemary, leaves picked
1 tsp Dijon mustard
60g/2¼oz pitted green olives, plus extra to garnish
small handful fresh parsley leaves, plus extra to garnish
salt & pepper
Method
Put the porcini mushrooms in a bowl & cover with hot water from a kettle. Put the cashews in a separate bowl & cover with hot water.
Heat a frying pan over a medium–high heat, add a drizzle of olive oil & as soon as it is hot, add the shallots & fry for 8 minutes.
Drain the porcini mushrooms (save the water they’ve been soaking in) & add them to the frying pan along with the shiitake mushrooms. Fry for 4 minutes. Add 4 tablespoons of the porcini soaking water & fry for another 4 minutes.
Add the garlic, thyme & rosemary to the frying pan & fry for 5 minutes.
Drain the cashews & put them in a food processor. Add the mushroom mixture & the mustard, olives, parsley & a pinch of salt & pepper. Blend until smooth.
Transfer to a serving bowl & garnish with a few slices of olives & a sprinkling of parsley.
Chicken Ballotine w/ Spinach, Cheese & Bread Stuffing
Ingredients:
1 chicken 1.7kgs, boned
¼ tsp salt
¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper
For the Spinach, Cheese, & Bread Stuffing:
1 tbsp olive oil
1 tsp finely chopped garlic
baby spinach leaves
¼ tsp salt
¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper
1 cup grated Gruyere or mozzarella cheese
1 ½ cups cubed (½-inch) bread
For the sauce:
⅓ cup water
½ cup dry red wine
1 celery stalk, peeled & cut into ¼-inch dice
1 small onion, chopped (½ cup)
1 carrot, peeled & cut into ¼-inch dice (⅓ cup)
½ tsp potato starch slurry
1 tbsp dark soy sauce
1 tbsp chopped fresh parsley
Method
Preheat the oven to 190ºC.
For the Stuffing: heat the oil in a large saucepan or skillet. Add the garlic, spinach, salt, & pepper, & cook for 1 minute to soften the garlic & wilt the spinach. Transfer to a bowl & let cool to room temperature. Reserve the cheese & bread & continue with the recipe.
Lay the chicken skin-side down on the work surface & sprinkle with the salt & pepper. Spread the cool rice or spinach mixture evenly over the chicken. If using the spinach stuffing, sprinkle the cheese & bread cubes on top of the spinach. Roll the chicken up, tie with kitchen twine, & place in roasting pan.
Roast the ballotine for 1 hour. Lift it from the pan & place it on a platter.
For the Sauce: Skim off & discard most of the fat from the drippings in the pan. Add the water & wine to the drippings to deglaze the pan & heat over medium heat, stirring to loosen & melt the solidified juices.
Strain the juices into a saucepan. Add the celery, onion, & carrot & bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to low, & boil gently for 5 minutes. Stir in the dissolved potato starch & soy sauce & bring the mixture back to a boil, stirring, to thicken it. Remove from the heat.
Transfer the ballotine to a cutting board & remove the twine. Cut half of it into 4 or 5 slices, each about 1 inch thick. Return the uncut half of the ballotine to the serving platter & arrange the cut slices in front of it. Pour the sauce over & around the ballotine, garnish with the parsley, & serve. Cut additional slices of ballotine as needed at the table.