The Humble Potato
Gnocchi, hashbrowns, the classic Hungarian Goulash, potato salad, Vada Pav (Potato Fritter Sandwich), Aloo Bhaji, Potato & Bacon Soup, French Fries, roast potatoes, baked potatoes, Dauphine, Lyonnaise & Duchess; the list is endless. The humble potato surely has to be the most versatile tuber throughout the world.
Mashed Potatoes
Ingredients:
900gms russet potatoes
Kosher salt
100mls whole milk, plus more as needed
50mls culinary cream
85gms unsalted butter, room temperature
Freshly ground black pepper
Method:
Potato Mash: Peel potatoes & cut into small cubes to reduce the surface area & minimize cooking time. Transfer to a pot of cold water & rinse. Cover potatoes with fresh cold water & season generously with salt.
Set potatoes over medium-high heat & bring to a boil & reduce heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Cook until potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes after reaching a simmer.
Drain potatoes in a colander & rinse under hot running water for 30 seconds to wash away excess starch. Allow potatoes to steam for 1 minute to remove excess moisture.
Set a ricer over now-empty pot & pass potatoes through. Add butter & gently fold into potatoes.
Bring milk & cream to a simmer before gently folding into the potatoes to reach the desired consistency.
Roast Potatoes
Ingredients:
Kosher salt
½ tsp (4g) baking soda
4 pounds (about 2 kg) russet or Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled & cut into quarters, sixths, or eighths, depending on size (see note)
5 tbsp (75ml) extra-virgin olive oil, duck fat, goose fat, or beef fat
Small handful picked fresh rosemary leaves, finely chopped
3 medium cloves garlic, minced
Freshly ground black pepper
Small handful fresh parsley leaves, minced
Method:
Adjust oven rack to centre position & preheat oven to 450°F (230°C) (or 400°F (200°C) if using convection). Heat 2 quarts (2L) water in a large pot over high heat until boiling. Add 2 tablespoons kosher salt (about 1 ounce; 25g), baking soda, & potatoes & stir. Return to a boil, reduce to a simmer, & cook until a knife meets little resistance when inserted into a potato chunk, about 10 minutes after returning to a boil.
Meanwhile, combine olive oil, duck fat, or beef fat with rosemary, garlic, & a few grinds of black pepper in a small saucepan & heat over medium heat. Cook, stirring & shaking pan constantly, until garlic just begins to turn golden, about 3 minutes. Immediately strain oil through a fine-mesh strainer set in a large bowl. Set garlic/rosemary mixture aside & reserve separately.
When potatoes are cooked, drain carefully & let them rest in the pot for about 30 seconds to allow excess moisture to evaporate. Transfer to bowl with infused oil, season to taste with a little more salt & pepper, & toss to coat, shaking bowl roughly, until a thick layer of mashed potato–like paste has built up on the potato chunks.
Transfer potatoes to a large rimmed baking sheet & separate them, spreading them out evenly. Transfer to oven & roast, without moving, for 20 minutes. Using a thin, flexible metal spatula to release any stuck potatoes, shake pan & turn potatoes. Continue roasting until potatoes are deep brown & crisp all over, turning & shaking them a few times during cooking, 30 to 40 minutes longer.
Transfer potatoes to a large bowl & add garlic/rosemary mixture & minced parsley. Toss to coat & season with more salt & pepper to taste. Serve immediately.
French Fries
The Science Involved im Making Quality French Fries
French fries or potato chips are attractive commodities in fast-food chains. They are prepared by washing-cum-peeling of whole potatoes, cutting into strips of the desired size, removing the adhering surface starches by wiping or soaking in cold water, drying followed by frying.
Dry Matter v Reduced Sugars v Water Content
Potato dry matter is your friend, reduced sugars & water content are essentially the bad guys.
The moisture content is the amount of water found in potatoes while the dry matter is what remains if water is removed—this is where the feed nutrients are found. Stem tubers like potatoes are 80% water & 20% solids. This is the reason why french fries can potentially disintegrate when cooking. Dry matter content of 20% is desirable, that is, once all the water content is removed. Furthermore, sugars found in the potato will will result in excessive colouration during the cooking process & a low “reduced sugar” is desirable & sort.
“After-Cooking Darkening” (ACD)
Manufacturers & potato-processing entities have been looking for ways to prevent after-cooking darkening. ACD happens when ferri-chlorogenic acid is oxidized in French fries; however, to nulify the potential for ACD occuring, potatoes can be soaked in cold water for about 3 to 4 hours— this also enhances the texture of fries when cooked.
Older tubers contain a lower percentage of water, the same applies to sugar content but is also influenced by the variety of potatoes used. Consider the below:
1. Russet Burbank: This variety is generally considered the best for frying due to its high starch & low water content. Its long shape makes it ideal for cutting into thick chips or thinner French fries.
2. Coliban Potato: This homegrown spud is ideal for chips & wedges since it has smooth skin & moist flesh, which is perfect for handling the high temperatures that chips are exposed to.
3. Sebago Potato: Another Australian favorite, Sebago potatoes are also ideal for chips & wedges. They absorb flavor quite well, making them a great choice for French fries.
4. Yukon Gold: If Russet Burbank isn’t available, Yukon Gold is a good alternative. It’s an all-purpose potato with a good mixture of starch & sugars, making it very good for frying.
5. Kennebec: This variety is also suitable for making fries as they offer a greater surface area for cutting into long fries.
The best potatoes for frying chips are floury potatoes as they hold their shape very well & tend to absorb ingredients like salt & oil much better than other types of potatoes.
*As a 1st year apprentice, the potato & I became very close, I washed, peeled & eyed, cut & blanched over 150kgs in the first 3 hours of each day. Potato rumblers & great cutting moulds made this possible but coordination was essential, as was concentration. My first 3 hours was always dreaded because of the monotomy of the task at hand.
Convenient, labour costs & waste determine that frozen french fries dominate the world market for peparation perference.
BNG Trading have had a long association with the Farm Frites Group for many years & for obvious reasons. With BNG Trading importing over 20 x 40 foot reefer units of french fries from Europe annually, our growth in the PNG market has been impressive indeed, though certainly not by accident.
Farm Frites are world leaders in R&R, quality & product consistency & based on those parameters, our relationship has development exponentially
The Two Stage Process: Double Frying (First Stage)
The frying process is performed in two stages which consists of blanching frozen french fries in hot fat at a temperature of 160°C to partially cook. The objective is not to impart any colouration but rather to pre cook only.
Why do you blanch the French Fries Frozen
The water content still remaining in the french fries are crystalized in their frozen form, this crystalized moisture is stored in the centre of the potatoes, but during the blanching process, the moisture is transferred to the exterior after they cool. Since the moisture is already on the outside, it’s now easier to eliminate during the final fry.
The Two Stage Process: Double Frying (Second Stage)
Not convinced? Consider the McDonald’s process who blanch their fries at 76°C, then freezing before sending them to their branches.
Then, they are fried in hot fat (190°C) to obtain a crisp texture of the exterior followed by subjecting to a deoiling process, salting, & finally spicing.
The two stage process is a time honoured tradition, not only is it a necessary process, the science
The Oil
There are many varieties of oil that people prefer. But a study showed that corn oil is what most fast food chains used to fry their fries. Corn oil is low in saturated & monounsaturated fats.
The main key to frying fries is temperature & time control. Cooking them at high temperature & short time may end in cooked exterior but uncooked interior. However, Cooking at low temperature may result in soggy fries.
1. High Smoke Point: Compound oils are specifically designed for frying, due to their a high smoke point. This means it can be heated to high temperatures without breaking down, which is ideal for deep frying.
2. Neutral Flavor: Compound oils also have a neutral flavor that doesn’t interfere with the taste of the food being fried.
3. Reusability: Though expensive, compound oils are designed for multple use & can be strained & reused numerous times. If looked after correctly this oils can be extremely cost-effective.
4. Crispiness: Using compound fats will produce a product that are crisp on the outside & soft on the inside.
5. Less Absorption: Some compound fats are formulated to be less absorbed by the food, resulting in less greasy fries.
In summary, consider the following:
1. Choose the right potato, a floury variety like Russet Burbank, Coliban or Sebago are ideal for french fries.
2. Soak your potatoes prior the cooking to minimize “Reduced Sugars” content & the potential of “After-Cooking Darkening” (ACD) occuring.
3. Potatoes contain 80% water & 20% solid matter. Reduce water percentage by pre cooking in water initially, drying & then blanching in hot oil at 160°C to partially cook further extracting additional
water.
4. Choose a neutral flavour oil with a high smoke point, preferably a compound oils but canola is a suitable alternative.
5. Coook 100gms per 1 litre of oil only & let the oil reach a temperature of 190°C after each cook prior to cooking thr next batch.
Importantly, while compound & vegetable oils are an ideal medium for cooking french fries, it’s also important to consider nutritional factors. Regularly consuming foods fried in oil can have health implications, so it’s recommended to enjoy these foods in moderation.
Choosing Potatoes for Baking
Just about every baked potato in the United States is made with a russet potato, a starchy variety with a thick, papery skin. When cooked, the pectin holding the russet’s cells together breaks down easily, resulting in a more powdery, granular texture. Many people will tell you that the russet is hands down the best potato for baking. And, while I’d agree that it’s a great choice, I wouldn’t go quite so far—on a recent trip to the UK, I ate a baked potato made from a much moister, waxier variety, & it was sublime. Of course, the fact that it was drenched in butter didn’t hurt.
Still, the russet is a classic, & ultimately the type I’m most likely to grab when I’m planning to bake some potatoes.
Rule 1: Puncture It
The prevailing wisdom calls for puncturing the potato in several spots with a fork or paring knife, since there’s a small risk that an unvented potato will explode from pent-up steam. I’ve never seen this happen firsthand—probably because we always punctured the potatoes in the restaurants where I worked—but Kenji says he once saw a potato blow up in the face of a chef he worked for.
Conclusion: Put some holes in the skin, for safety’s sake.
Rule 2: Don’t Wrap It
Some folks like to wrap their potatoes in foil before baking them. That makes sense if you’re cooking in the embers of a campfire, but when I tested a foil wrapping in the oven, all it did was produce soggy skins. You’ll get much better results if you leave the potato unwrapped & expose its skin to the oven’s dry heat.
Rule 3: Use a Moderate Oven
After experimenting with a variety of oven temperatures, I found roughly 350 to 375°F to be the ideal range, producing a properly crisped skin & a creamy, fluffy interior in about an hour. Any hotter, & the potato will tend to develop a tough, dry, browned layer under the skin. Any cooler, & it will take longer than I’m usually willing to wait.
If you’re pressed for time, I’ve gotten very good results by microwaving the potato for five minutes, then finishing it in a very hot, 450°F oven for about 20 minutes. That high heat will help the skin crisp in a much shorter window of time.
Rule 4: Oil It
I found that rubbing the potato with oil before baking it makes a significant difference in the texture & flavour of the skin. Without oil, the skin becomes leathery & tough & seems thicker; it also tastes faintly of a swamp. That may be some people’s idea of a good potato skin, but it’s not mine.
With a coating of oil, though, the skin becomes tender & slightly crisp; you can bite or cut through it easily, & the flavour is much better. You can use a neutral type like canola, or a flavoured one like olive—ultimately, it won’t make a huge difference once the potato is loaded with toppings. If you want to use butter for the flavour profile, consider only clarified butter as the water content reduces the amount of crispiness you will be able to achieve.
Rule 5: Use a Rack
The final consideration is where to set the potato in the oven. Baking sheets are your worst bet, since they’re made out of conductive metals, like aluminium, that brand the potatoes with dark burned spots. Some recipes suggest setting the potato on a bed of salt instead, but I’ve tested that before, &, while it reduces the hot-spot issue, it’s mostly just a waste of salt, since it doesn’t noticeably season the flesh.
The best method I’ve found is to set the potato on a wire rack set over a baking sheet, which keeps the spud elevated & allows air to circulate all around for even cooking. If you don’t have such a rack, you can put the potatoes directly onto an oven rack. Assuming you’ve oiled the potatoes, though, I’d recommend putting a sheet of foil on the rack below, just in case of drips. (Even lightly oiled potatoes can drip as the oil becomes more fluid in the heat.)
Finish It Right
You can determine when the potato is fully baked by sliding a fork into its centre. If it slides in with absolutely no resistance, it’s done.
I like to let it rest a few minutes at this point so that it’s a little easier to handle. Then I split it open from end to end & scoop out the flesh into a mixing bowl.
Yes, this is somewhat fussy. No, you don’t have to do it. You can, for instance, gently squeeze the potato in its skin to break up the flesh, then slice it open & jam some pats of butter down into the centre. That’ll be good, but it won’t be great, because that method will never ensure that the butter—let alone any salt you sprinkle on top—reaches all the places it needs to.
You can also skip the scooping step & just fork-mash the butter right into each potato half. I have no real objections to this, aside from the fact that it’ll look like two flattened & smashed potato halves.
For a more textbook baked-potato look, & to get sufficient buttering & seasoning throughout, scooping is the only real solution. I add butter, salt, & pepper to the mixing bowl & lightly mash it all together. When I want a truly satisfying meal, though, I actually like to cook two potatoes, scooping out the flesh of both & then piling the mash into the skin of just one of them. It ends up looking like one gloriously overstuffed, massive baked potato. That said, you’re free to be a little less piggy than me & serve one potato per person—this method will work either way.
Using your hands, you can form the potato-stuffed skins back into a perfect baked-potato shape. Then add whatever you want, like grated cheese, scallions, chives, sour cream, & crispy bacon bits. If you want to melt the cheese, you can throw the potato back in the oven with the grated cheese on top (making it a “twice-baked” potato, an overwrought description for something that’s just getting briefly reheated), or use a torch to melt it quickly on the countertop.
Most importantly, don’t hold back. A fully loaded baked potato isn’t meant to be a light & tidy meal—it should be rich, hearty, filling, & flavourful.
The Ultimate Baked Potato
Ingredients:
340gms potatoes
Canola, vegetable, or olive oil, for rubbing
1 stick unsalted butter (4 ounces; 114g), diced
Kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper
Toppings of your choice, such as grated cheddar cheese, crispy diced bacon bits, minced chives, sliced scallions, &/or sour cream
Method:
Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). Using a fork or paring knife, puncture potatoes in several spots. Rub each potato with a light coat of oil. Arrange on a rack set on a baking sheet, or directly on an oven rack, & bake until a fork can easily be inserted into the centre of each potato, about 1 hour. If setting potatoes directly on oven rack, set a sheet of foil on the rack below to catch any oil drips.
If Using the Microwave & Oven (see notes): Preheat oven to 450°F (230°C). Using a fork or paring knife, puncture potatoes in several spots. Microwave potatoes for 5 minutes. Rub each potato with a light coat of oil. Arrange on a rack set on a baking sheet, or directly on an oven rack, & bake until a fork can easily be inserted into the centre of each potato, about 20 minutes. If setting potatoes directly on oven rack, set a sheet of foil on the rack below to catch any oil drips.
Let potatoes rest 5 minutes. Slice each open lengthwise & scoop flesh into a mixing bowl. Add butter, season with salt & pepper, & roughly mash, just until butter is incorporated but potatoes are still chunky.
Split image showing halved baked potato & metal bowl with mashed potato in it.
Scoop mashed potatoes back into skins. (You can refill each skin, making 4 smaller potatoes, or use all the mashed potato to refill only half the skins, making 2 overstuffed potatoes.) Using your hands, reshape each stuffed potato back into a classic baked-potato shape.
Top with toppings of your choice. To melt cheese, add it first, then return potatoes to oven until cheese melts, about 1 minute; alternatively, use a torch to melt cheese. Serve right away.
In October 1995, the potato became the first vegetable to be grown in space. NASA & the University of Wisconsin, Madison, created the technology with the goal of feeding astronauts on long space voyages, & eventually, feeding future space colonies.
Potatoes belong to the same family as tobacco.
Potatoes & sweet potatoes are not in the same family despite both being tubers that grow underground.
One of the differences is that while potatoes are tubers, sweet potatoes are the enlarged roots of the sweet potato plant, known as root tubers.
Sweet potatoes belong to Convolvulaceae, the same family as morning glory.
Patates Lemonates (Greek Lemon Potatoes)
Ingredients:
½ cup (120ml) extra-virgin olive oil, divided
2 ½ pounds (1.2kg) Yukon gold potatoes, peeled & cut into 2-inch pieces
Kosher salt
2 medium garlic cloves (10g), lightly crushed
¾ cup (180ml) homemade chicken stock or low-sodium store-bought chicken broth, or water
¼ cup (60ml) freshly squeezed lemon juice from about 3 lemons, divided
2 tsp dried oregano
When it comes to roast potatoes, people often prize crispness as the ultimate goal; there’s a reason that Kenji’s crispy British-style roasted spuds is one of our most popular recipes. But there are plenty of other styles of oven-roasted potatoes that are worthy of attention, that place a premium on creamy tenderness rather than crunch. Patates lemonates, a classic Greek side of potatoes roasted with olive oil, lemon juice, & oregano, are a top contender in this category. A generous splash of stock or water added to the pan before it goes in the oven creates a braise-roast hybrid cooking environment that gives the spuds their characteristic fork-tender texture. Unlike many Western European potato dishes (I’m looking at you, France), Patates lemonates take advantage of the flavour-absorbing qualities of potatoes to imbue them with a burst of citrus acidity rather than just fat & woodsy herbs. This brightness makes them the perfect foil to hearty roasted or grilled meats & seafood.
As is often the case with roast potatoes, Patates Lemonates are commonly prepared as an accompaniment to roast chicken, with pieces of potato arranged around a bird in a roasting pan so that they soak up poultry juices during cooking. But Patates lemonates, which are also known as patates riganates (oregano) or patates sto fourno (oven-roasted), can also easily be prepared on their own.
The simplest approach is to combine large pieces of potato in a baking dish with chicken stock, olive oil, lemon juice, & oregano, & roast them in a hot oven until tender. I went through many rounds of testing tinkering with this method, experimenting with fully uncovered roasting, & then covering & uncovering the baking dish at different intervals to try to create the optimal balance between tenderness & surface browning on the potatoes. Achieving consistent results with this method using different ovens proved to be difficult, so I decided to turn to a non-traditional technique for Patates lemonates that has served me well for another iteration of braise-roasted potatoes, French pommes de terre fondantes.
Starting the potatoes in a hot pan with olive oil on the stovetop allowed me to control surface browning, & better dial in the ratio of liquids in the recipe. Striking the right balance between chicken stock, olive oil, & lemon juice is key to this dish. Many recipes call for a 1:1:1 ratio, which I found produced overwhelmingly acidic results. The lemon should be assertive & punchy, but in a sunny, warm fashion. Also, unlike with fondant potatoes, chicken stock isn’t being used to give the dish a saucy finish. I wanted to use just enough that it could get the potatoes tender, & by the time they had reached that texture the stock would have been almost completely absorbed & evaporated, leaving just a slick of aromatic olive oil in the pan.
Method:
Adjust oven rack to middle position & preheat oven to 425°F (220°C). In a 12-inch stainless steel straight-sided sauté pan or skillet, or cast iron skillet, heat 2 tablespoons (30ml) olive oil medium-high heat until shimmering. Add potatoes to skillet, with one cut side down, in a single layer & evenly spaced, & season with salt. Cook, without moving, until potatoes begin to brown around edges, 4 to 5 minutes. Continue to cook, rotating & swirling pan gently to promote even browning & prevent sticking, until potatoes are browned on bottom side, 2 to 3 minutes longer, adjusting heat as needed if some of the piece’s brown too quickly.
Using a thin metal spatula, flip potatoes onto second flat side. Continue to cook until browned on second side, 4 to 5 minutes. Stir in garlic, & cook until aromatic, about 1 minute. Add remaining olive oil, chicken stock (or water), 3 tablespoons (45ml) lemon juice, & oregano. Bring to a boil, swirling pan occasionally, & season with salt to taste.
Transfer skillet to oven & roast until potatoes are completely tender, offering little to no resistance when poked with a paring knife, & most of the stock has evaporated, 25 to 30 minutes.
Remove from oven, add remaining 1 tablespoon (15ml) lemon juice, & stir to combine. Season with salt to taste, then serve.
Skordalia (Greek Garlic & Potato Spread)
Ingredients:
2 medium russet potatoes (about 1 pound; 453g), peeled & cut into ¾-inch cubes
kosher salt
whole blanched almonds (½ cup; 85g)
4 to 6 medium cloves garlic (see notes)
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (90ml) white wine vinegar &/or fresh lemon juice (from about 2 lemons; see notes)
¾ cup (180ml) extra-virgin olive oil
Minced flat-leaf parsley, for garnish
Warmed pita &/or bread, for serving
Method:
Preheat oven to 180°C. Set cubed potatoes in a colander & rinse under cold water until water runs clear. Transfer to a large saucepan & cover with cold water by at least 2 inches. Season water with salt until it is salty like tears. Bring water to a boil over high heat, then reduce heat to medium-low & simmer until a knife easily pierces potatoes with no resistance, 10 to 15 minutes. Drain potatoes in colander, then rinse with hot running water for 30 seconds.
Meanwhile, in a food processor, combine almonds, garlic, 2 tablespoons (30ml) cold water, & wine vinegar &/or lemon juice. Process until garlic & almonds are reduced to a paste. Season with salt.
Spread potatoes in an even layer on a rimmed baking sheet & transfer to oven until excess moisture has evaporated & surface of potatoes is dry & looks chalky, about 6 minutes.
Alternatively, thoroughly mash potatoes with a potato masher in a large mixing bowl.
Stir in olive oil & almond-garlic mixture until thoroughly incorporated. If skordalia looks like it’s breaking slightly (i.e., if the oil does not fully incorporate to form a homogeneous mixture), stir in more cold water, 1 tablespoon at a time, beating well, until mixture is emulsified. Season with salt, then garnish with parsley & serve immediately with warm pita or bread, or chill until ready to serve.
Pommes Anna
Ingredients:
Nonstick cooking spray
2 pounds (900g) Yukon Gold potatoes (about 4 medium potatoes)
Kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper
2 tbsp (30g) melted homemade or store-bought clarified butter, plus more for brushing
Method:
Adjust oven rack to middle position & preheat oven to 350°F (175°C). Spray an 8-inch aluminium cake pan with nonstick cooking spray, making sure to get the interior sides as well as the bottom. Cut an 8-inch parchment round & press it flat on the bottom of the cake pan. Spray the parchment round with more nonstick cooking spray.
Peel potatoes & hold them in a bowl of cold water to prevent discoloration. Working with one potato at a time & using a mandoline, slice potatoes crosswise 1mm thick. If desired, select a round cookie cutter just big enough to punch perfect circles from the potato slices; make small stacks of potato slices & punch out the circles, discarding scraps or saving for another use (if you do decide to make potato circles, note that you only need to do it for the first layer or two of the pommes Anna, after that you can just use the remaining potato slices as-is).
Starting in the centre of the cake pan, set down a single potato slice, then arrange concentric circles of potato slices around it in an overlapping shingled pattern until you fully cover the bottom of the cake pan.
Using a pastry brush, gently brush the potato layer with clarified butter, then season lightly with salt & pepper. Repeat this pattern in layers with remaining potatoes until you’ve made 5 or 6 layers, seasoning each layer with salt & pepper & brushing lightly with clarified butter each time. Weigh down the layered potatoes with a small flat lid or oven-safe plate (spray the side of the lid or plate that will touch the potatoes with nonstick spray first); if you have oven-safe weights to add on top, do so, or press down firmly with your hands.
Allow layered potatoes to stand 15 minutes, pressing down occasionally to help extract as much liquid as possible. Remove the weights, if using, &, using the lid or plate to hold the layered potatoes in place, carefully tip cake pan, & squeezing down on the lid/plate with your fingers, expel & pour out as much liquid as possible. Replace oven-safe weights, if using, & transfer to oven to cook until potatoes are fully tender throughout & can be easily pierced with a paring knife, about 45 minutes. Let cool to room temperature.
When ready to finish, remove weights & lid/plate from potato cake (if any potato slices stick when removing the cover, just put them back as best you can; this will be the non-presentation side of the pommes Anna). Using a paring knife or small offset spatula, carefully slide around the edge of the potato cake to ensure it is not attached to the cake pan. Set a large, flat plate on top of the cake pan, then, in one quick, confident motion, flip to invert. The potato cake may take a second to release, but with a gentle shake or two it should drop onto the plate. If the parchment paper remains attached to the potatoes, carefully remove & discard. Very gently brush or dab top side of potato cake all over with additional clarified butter.
Set an empty, cold, oven-safe 10-inch nonstick skillet over the plate. In another quick, confident motion, flip the potato cake into the skillet.
Set skillet over medium-high heat, add 2 tablespoons (30g) clarified butter, & cook until butter begins to gently sizzle all over. Transfer skillet to the oven & cook until potato cake is heated through, about 10 minutes. Return to medium heat on the stovetop & continue to cook, gently rotating the pan & swirling the potato cake for even browning, until underside is well browned & crisped all over, about 5 minutes longer (use a thin spatula to very slightly lift the potato cake in various spots to check the progress of browning, being careful not to let it fall apart).
Using the lid or plate from baking to hold the potato cake in place in the skillet, pour out the clarified butter into a heatproof bowl so that there is no liquid fat remaining in the skillet.
While wearing oven mitts, set a serving platter on top of the skillet & once more quickly & confidently invert it. Serve the pommes Anna right away, cutting wedges for each diner.
Hasselback Potatoes
Ingredients:
4 medium russet potatoes, scrubbed
4 large cloves garlic, thinly sliced
4 ounces Parmesan cheese, 2 ounces thinly sliced, 2 ounces grated
2 tbsp olive oil
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Method:
Cut off a thin slice of each potato lengthwise to create a even base for potato to rest on. Slice off ends of each potato. Rest potato between two chopsticks or wooden spoons to act as a stop for the knife & carefully cut vertical slits in each potato about every 1/8-inch.
Rinse potato under running water, fanning out to rinse inside of cut slits. Place potatoes on a plate & microwave at high for 5 minutes. Flip potatoes over & microwave again for an additional 5 minutes.
Tuck slices of garlic & Parmesan in slits in the potatoes, it does not have to be in every slit. Brush potatoes with olive oil & season with salt & pepper to taste. Sprinkle tops with grated Parmesan.
Pommes Duchesse
Ingredients:
(1.4kg) Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled & cut into 1-inch pieces (see note)
Kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper
1/3 cup (80ml) heavy cream
Pinch freshly grated nutmeg
6 tbsp (90g) unsalted butter, melted
1 large egg plus 2 yolks, lightly beaten
Nonstick cooking spray (for piped individual portions only)
Melted clarified butter, for brushing (optional)
Method:
Adjust oven rack to middle position & preheat oven to 450°F (230°C). In a medium pot, combine potatoes, 2 quarts cold water, & 2 teaspoons salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce heat to maintain a simmer. Cook until potatoes are tender & offer little resistance when pierced with a paring knife, about 10 minutes. Drain potatoes, then return to now-empty pot.
Set pot over low heat & cook, shaking constantly, until moisture has evaporated from potatoes, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Remove from heat.
Using a ricer or food mill, pass potatoes into a medium bowl. Using a flexible spatula, stir in butter. Once butter is fully incorporated, stir in cream & nutmeg. Season with salt & pepper to taste. Stir in beaten egg mixture until combined, taking care not to over-mix the potatoes.
For Individual Portions: Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper & grease lightly with nonstick cooking spray. Transfer potato mixture to a pastry bag fitted with a ½-inch star tip. To pipe the potatoes, hold the filled pastry bag at an 80° angle, apply steady downward pressure, & pipe a 3-inch-wide mound, working in a circular motion. To stop piping, cease applying pressure & swirl the pastry tip away. Continue to pipe portions about 2 inches apart, for a total of 12 portions. Lightly coat portions with clarified butter (if using), taking care not to undo the piped design.
For a Casserole: Grease a 2-quart baking dish, then set it on a rimmed baking sheet. Transfer 2/3 of potato mixture to prepared baking dish. Transfer remaining 1/3 to a pastry bag fitted with a ½-inch star tip. Using a flexible or offset spatula, smooth potato mixture in baking dish in an even layer. Pipe remaining potato on top by holding filled pastry bag at an 80° angle, & applying steady downward pressure to form small mounds in an even decorative pattern. Lightly coat portions with clarified butter (if using), taking care not to undo the piped design.
Transfer to oven & bake until golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes for individual portions, & about 25 minutes for a casserole; rotating baking sheet halfway through baking. Serve.
Pommes de Terre Fondantes (Fondant Potatoes)
Ingredients:
1 ½ cups homemade chicken or beef stock, or store-bought low-sodium chicken broth, plus extra as needed
4 gelatine sheets
2 ½ pounds (1.1kg) Yukon Gold potatoes, about 2 ½ to 3 inches long each, peeled
Kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper
2 tbsp (30ml) vegetable oil, beef fat, schmaltz, or duck fat (see note)
4 tbsp (55g) unsalted butter
3 medium garlic cloves (15g), peeled & smashed
1 tbsp fresh thyme leaves, chopped
Flaky sea salt, such as Maldon, for finishing (optional)
Method:
Adjust oven rack to middle position & preheat oven to 230°C. Place stock in a liquid measuring cup or small bowl & sprinkle gelatine over top. Set aside.
Using a sharp knife, cut off ends of potatoes to give them flat sides, then halve potatoes crosswise. Pat dry with paper towels.
In a 12-inch stainless steel straight-sided sauté pan or skillet, or cast iron skillet, heat oil or fat over medium-high heat until just beginning to smoke. Season potatoes with salt & pepper & add to skillet, broad side down, in a single layer with space between each piece. Cook, without moving, until potatoes begin to brown around edges, 4 to 5 minutes. Continue to cook, rotating & swirling pan gently to promote even browning & prevent sticking, until potatoes are deeply browned on bottom side, 3 to 4 minutes longer, adjusting heat as needed if some of the piece’s brown too quickly.
Using a thin metal spatula, flip potatoes onto second flat side. Add butter & cook, swirling constantly, until butter is melted & begins to foam, about 1 minute. Add garlic & thyme, & cook until fragrant, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Add stock & bring to a boil.
Transfer skillet to oven & roast until potatoes are completely tender, offering little to no resistance when poked with a paring knife, & liquid is reduced to a saucy consistency, 25 to 30 minutes.
Return skillet to stovetop. Using a thin metal spatula or tongs, transfer potatoes to a serving platter, broad side up, leaving sauce in the skillet; discard garlic. Bring sauce to a simmer over medium heat & cook, swirling & stirring constantly, until sauce is emulsified, 30 seconds to 1 minute. If emulsion appears broken or sauce is too thick, add more stock or water, 1 tablespoon (15ml) at a time, until you reach the desired consistency. Season to taste with salt & pepper & pour sauce over & around potatoes. Sprinkle with flaky sea salt (if using, otherwise season with a little more kosher salt), & serve.
Pommes Au Gratin
Ingredients:
4 russet potatoes, peeled & sliced into ¼-inch slices
1 onion, sliced into rings
3 tbsp unsalted butter
3 tbsp all-purpose flour
½ tsp kosher salt
2 cups whole milk, room temperature
1½ cups mild cheddar cheese, shredded
salt & pepper to taste
Method:
Preheat oven to 190°C. Lightly spray a casserole dish, ramekin or serving vessel of your choice. Layer the potatoes & onions alternatively
In a medium-size saucepan, melt butter over medium heat. Mix in the flour & salt, & stir constantly with a whisk for one minute. Stir in milk. Cook until mixture has thickened.
Stir in cheese all at once, & continue stirring until melted & smooth, about 30-60 seconds.
Pour the cheese sauce over the potatoes, & cover the dish with aluminium foil.
Bake for 85-90 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender.
For a crisp topping, change the oven setting to broil after the potatoes are baked. Broil until golden brown.
Season with salt & pepper to taste & serve.