Beef Tenderloin: Overview

Small, thin, lean, incredibly tender muscles located on either side of the backbone, tenderloins are the most prized cut on the entire animal. Their buttery tenderness is legendary & people are willing to pay very high prices for tenderloin roasts & filet mignon steaks.

This cut has a relatively mild flavour (though grass-fed tenderloins are more flavourful than grain-fed ones), so tenderloin roasts & steaks are frequently paired with sauces that add moisture & additional flavour. One of the fancier classical roast recipes, Beef Wellington, is traditionally made with beef tenderloin. This is also an excellent cut for making steak tartare & carpaccio.

Tenderloins have a narrow end & a thick end. To ensure consistency, roasts & steaks are typically cut from the thick end. Roasts can be made from the thin end by cutting the smallest portion off & trussing it to a thicker portion using butcher’s twine. The thin end can also be sliced for beef medallions.

These tenderloins are sold with the “chain” on. The chain is a muscle that runs along the tenderloin. Because it isn’t very pretty or a very useful thickness, it’s usually cut off the tenderloin by butchers or chefs & sautéed as a snack.

Tenderloins also have a side muscle that juts off the thick end. It’s typically cut off of the tenderloin & can be used as a small tenderloin roast. These tenderloins are sold with the side muscle still attached & are cleaned of surface fat down to the silver skin. This version of the cut is sometimes referred to as a “PSMO Tenderloin” (PSMO stands for “Peeled, Side Muscle On”).

Beef tenderloins are often graded into sizes by weight, with “5 & Up” referring to ones graded at or above 2.25kgs each.

Applications: Roast Whole or in Portions, or Slice into Chateaubriand or Filet Mignon Steaks.

Beef Chateaubriand

Ingredients:
1 pound beef tenderloin (centre cut)
Salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
3 tbsp unsalted butter, softened & divided
2 tbsp olive oil
1 medium shallot, finely chopped
½ cup medium-bodied dry red wine
½ cup demi-glace
1 tbsp fresh tarragon, chopped

Method:
Preheat the oven to 180ºC. Evenly season the beef with salt & pepper.

Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter with the olive oil in a large skillet, set over medium-high heat & place the seasoned meat in the pan & brown. Carefully turn the tenderloin on its side & brown for 3 minutes more. Repeat the same browning process on all exposed surface areas of the meat.

Transfer the tenderloin to a rack placed in a roasting pan & put in the oven setting aside the skillet with any accumulated juices for making the sauce.

Roast the beef to your desired doneness, about 15 minutes for medium-rare, 20 minutes for medium, & 23 minutes for medium-well.

Remove the meat from the oven & transfer to a warm serving platter, tent the meat with foil & let rest for 15 minutes.

While the tenderloin is resting, make the wine sauce. Combine the shallot with the juices in the skillet & sauté over medium heat until translucent. Add the wine into the skillet & bring the sauce to a simmer whilst deglazing the pan & reducing by half.

Add the demi-glace to the sauce & continue to cook on a moderate simmer until slightly thickened.

Remove from the heat & stir in the remaining 1 tablespoon softened butter & tarragon. Taste & season with salt & black pepper as needed. Slice the meat on the diagonal & serve with the wine sauce.

Pan-Seared Filet Mignon

Ingredients:
4 only 275gms beef tenderloin, 1.5– 2 inches thick)
salt & pepper to taste
canola oil
garlic & herb butter
½ stick of butter, softened
1 tbsp chopped fresh rosemary
1 tbsp chopped fresh tarragon
½ tbsp minced garlic

Method:
For the herb butter: Leave the butter on the counter to soften or place it in a microwave-safe bowl & microwave until malleable, 10-15 seconds. Use a fork to mash in the herbs & garlic until fully mixed. Store in the refrigerator & remove 10 minutes before adding to the filet.

For the fillets: Preheat the oven to 230°C. Remove the steak from the refrigerator 30 minutes prior to cooking, this is to bring the steak to room temperature & ensure your cooking times are more accurate. Season all sides liberally with salt & pepper.

Add 1-2 tablespoons of oil to a cast iron skillet & turn the heat to high, allowing the skillet to become very hot; distribute oil as it heats & place the filets face down & sear undisturbed for 2 minutes. Turn the fillets & sear for an additional 2 minutes giving your filets a nice seared edge.

Add some herb butter & a whole garlic clove, tarragon & rosemary to the pan before transferring it to the oven. The butter will melt & the herbs will season the pan enhancing the flavour profile of your sauce when we come to make this.

Transfer your skillet directly to the oven. For rare, bake for 4 minutes. Medium rare, 5-6 minutes. Medium, 6-7 minutes. Medium well, go & purchase a hamburger instead.

Depending on the size of the steak, the more or less time it will take. Monitor continually during the cooking process.

Spoon some of the seasoned pan juices over the steak to infuse it with extra flavour.

Remove fillets from the skillet & set on a plate & let sit for 5-10 minutes before serving. This is important to bring your steak to its final serving temperature.
Top with a slice of garlic & herb butter & serve.

Notes

Temperatures for steak
Rare: 48°C to 50°C
Medium rare: 50°C to 55°C
Medium: 60°C to 65°C

Cooking meat is a combination of physics, chemistry, & biology. Each cut has somewhat different properties based on its composition & structure, & different types of cooking will yield the best* results for various cuts. In almost all cases, cooking a steak to well done will produce objectively poorer results in terms of flavour, texture, aroma, & juiciness.

When talking about “steak”, most people are referring not to all red meat in general, but to beef from cows. Further, steak typically refers to specific cuts & preparations, such as sirloin, porterhouse, strip, rib eye, tenderloin & cube roll as an example.

While there may be slight variation in the optimal cooking temperature for various cuts, different breeds, different cooking methods, etc, I can’t think of a single type of steak that is objectively better well done.

There are many other cuts of meat (such as short rib, brisket, etc.) that benefit from long cooking times to break down connective tissue. But nothing that is normally referred to as a steak fits that description.

The techniques used for cooking beef for long periods of time are different from those used on steak, & specifically allow for the introduction of additional liquid to prevent dryness, & often employ lower temperatures so that the meat doesn’t suffer from the long cook time.

Generally, cooking a steak optimally seeks to take advantage of two major reactions, from a chemistry/physics standpoint. The first is what is referred to as the “Maillard reaction”. That’s what gives the browned exterior of the beef (& other foods) its desirable flavour.

It’s usually characterized as a rich “umami” quality. If the steak is cooked beyond the optimal point, that browned portion is replaced by burnt/charred areas that not only lack the rich flavour from the Maillard reaction, but replace it with bitter, undesirable (& some say carcinogenic) straight carbon.

The second important thing that happens when you cook a steak is that the marbling fat inside the meat renders & melts into the meat.
If this process doesn’t happen, due to undercooking, the meat will not be as tender or as rich tasting as it could be. This is why, to a true steak lover, ordering a steak too rare can be just as much a faux pas as ordering it well done. You want to cook it just to the point where the marbling fat renders but isn’t consumed by the heat & burned off or lost.

Overcooking a highly marbled steak will make it tougher & more fibrous, as the muscle fibres tighten & the proteins denature completely. To get the most complex flavours out of a steak, you want to have the Maillard browning on the outside, the fat rendering on the inside, the nutty quality of the aging, & the mineral & sanguine aspects of the beef flesh all present.

There is a point around medium rare that is the “best” for eating & preserving all of those qualities. Eating it at any other temperature is akin to saying, “I want my steak to have less (or simpler) flavour”. If you said that about any other food, you are inviting “ridicule”.

The leaner the cut of meat, & the less marbling fat there is to render, the less the steak must be cooked to reach the ideal point as described above. A lean cut like tenderloin is best done slightly rarer than a fattier cut; take for example a cube roll which is heavily marbled & you want to render it fat content to permeate & add flavour to the meat.

Similarly, many game animals are very lean, & extreme care must be be taken not to overcook, kangaroo is a prime example where medium rare is essentially the optimum degree of “doneness” you want to consider.

Beef Wellington

Ingredients:

The Tenderloin
1.2kgs beef tenderloin, trimmed
Kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper
2 tbsp plus ½ tsp vegetable or canola oil
2 tbsp prepared horseradish
1 tbsp Dijon, or hot English mustard

The Duxelles
500gms button, cremini, shiitake, & portabella
4 tbsp unsalted butter
2 medium shallots, finely diced (about ½ cup)
2 tbsp finely minced fresh thyme leaves
½ cup Cognac or other brandy
½ cup heavy cream

The Pâté
500gms pâté

The Moisture Barrier
1 sheet phyllo dough
125gms prosciutto

The Puff Pastry
Flour, for dusting
250gms puff pastry, thawed
1 egg, beaten
Coarse sea salt
1 bunch finely minced chives

Method:
Using butcher’s twine, tie tenderloin at 1-inch intervals. Trim ends of twine. Season liberally with salt & pepper.

Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a cast iron or stainless steel skillet over high heat until smoking. Add tenderloin & cook without moving until well-browned on first side, about 2 minutes. Rotate tenderloin & continue cooking until browned on all sides, about 10 minutes total. Transfer to a large plate.

Combine horseradish, mustard, & 1 teaspoon black pepper in a small bowl. When tenderloin is cool enough to handle, cut off & discard twine, then rub on all surfaces with horseradish/mustard mixture. Place in refrigerator, uncovered.

Soak the shitake mushrooms in water to rehydrate for 1-2 hours, drain & add to the other mushrooms. Place half the mushrooms in the bowl of a food processor & pulse until finely chopped, scraping down sides & redistributing mushrooms as necessary. Transfer to a bowl & repeat with remaining process.

Heat butter in a skillet over medium-high heat until melted. Add mushrooms & cook, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms have exuded all their liquid. Continue cooking until mushrooms begin to brown & become aromatic. Add shallots & thyme & cook, stirring frequently, until softened.

Add brandy & deglaze skillet. Continue to cook until brandy has reduced by ¾. Add heavy cream & continue to cook, stirring frequently until mixture is thick & collects in one large mass. Season to taste & transfer to a bowl & refrigerator.

After adding some heavy cream (which reduces down & binds the mushrooms into a thick paste—the better to adhere to the meat with—I add a dash of soy sauce. Soy sauce, with its high levels of glutamic acid, is a natural umami-bomb. It makes things taste meatier, more savory. It makes the mushrooms taste more like mushrooms, if you will, & the tenderloin more like an entire steer & all of its flavour compressed down into a single tenderloin-sized package.

Prepare the pâté as below & refrigerate.

Lay a double layer of plastic wrap about 2 feet long & 1 foot wide on a cutting board. Lay phyllo dough on top of plastic wrap. Shingle prosciutto on top of phyllo to create a thin, even, overlapping layer, leaving a 2-inch border along the bottom & top of the phyllo dough. Spread mushroom mixture evenly over prosciutto layer.

Place tenderloin along the very bottom edge of the prosciutto/mushroom layer & apply pâté evenly over top of tenderloin. Carefully roll tenderloin using the plastic wrap to help tighten it as you roll. Once beef is completely rolled up, re-wrap with more plastic wrap, twisting the ends to make sure roll is very tight. Return to refrigerator for at least 2 hours to completely chill.

Dust board or countertop lightly with flour. Spread puff pastry on board &, using a rolling pin, roll it into a rectangle at least 4 inches wider than the beef roll on its shorter side.

Unwrap beef roll & place along very bottom edge of puff pastry with the pâté side facing up. Brush 6 inches of puff pastry just above beef roll with beaten egg. Carefully roll the beef in the puff pastry until it is completely wrapped. You should end up with the pâté facing up, with the puff pastry seam meeting on the bottom. Trim pastry with a sharp knife.

Fold sides of puff pastry protruding from either end of the beef roll towards the centre, then fold the top flaps down. Trim off the bottom flaps carefully.

Roll entire beef roll over so that the bottom is facing up, then fold up the end flaps to seal completely.

The Beef:

Tenderloin is emphatically not about fat & flavour; it’s essentially a very boring cut of blandness. Starting at the rib cage & extending to the sirloin, this non weight bearing fillet contains very little connective tissue or fat & is generally accompanied with a sauce due to its mild taste. What it does bring to the table is guaranteed tenderness. A Beef Wellington is all about introducing numerous aromatics & layering of difference fats & seasoning to drastically enhance the flavour profile. Let’s summarize exactly how we are going to complement our tenderloin:

1. Seasoning: Prior to tying your tenderloin to help maintain its shape, applying the first layer of salt is important; it offer flavour & encourages the mailard reaction when searing.

2. Searing: will seal the tenderloin by adding a crust to the outer layer, while promoting the magical chemical reaction between the amino acids & reducing sugars.

3. Mustard & Horseradish: adds both acidity & heat.

4. Prosciutto: if ever you doubted the Beef Wellington’s integrity, any hesitancy must surely have been dispelled. Prosciutto epitomizes luxury; defined by its delicate sweet signature flavour, a direct result of the combination of salt, air, & time, this addition to our dish adds umami in abundance.

5. Duxelles: with the addition of cream & butter, we are layering the fat component, together with the mushrooms & brandy, what was once a boring tenderloin is starting to get a significant make over.

6. Chicken Liver Pâté: the smooth texture of the purée pâté will slowly share its flavours as it renders down & distributes aromatics with the fillet.

The Mushrooms (Duxelles):
We are creating a classic; the Wellington deserves to be treated with respect; now is not the time to compromise quality of produce used nor is it time to consider only one variety of mushroom as all offer a different flavour profile & complexity.

Button mushrooms, shiitake (dried), & portobello all are easily found in supermarkets, all bring a little something to the party. No need to stop at these three varieties though; use a selection of mushrooms available to you but it is important to consider the preparation; get this down pat & where just about there.

Refer above to a comprehensive summary of preparation method.

Chicken Liver Pâté

Ingredient
80gms unsalted butter, divided
80gms minced shallot
500gms chicken livers
Kosher salt
1 clove garlic, minced
2 tbsp capers
1 tsp dried thyme
1 tsp anchovy paste, optional
50mls brandy
50mls culinary cream

The Pâté:

Trim the connective tissue & fat: Trim any fat or connective tissue from the livers & discard.

Brown the butter: Heat 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large sauté pan on medium heat & let the butter brown, about 3 to 5 minutes. Do not let it burn.

Sauté the shallots & livers: Sweat the shallots & sauté until fragrant, add the livers & lightly season & continue to cook for a further 2-3 minutes.

Add the capers, thyme, garlic, & anchovy paste: Add the capers, thyme, garlic, anchovy paste & brandy & reduce by ⅔ as you lift the fond from the base of the sauté pan. Remove from heat & let cool a touch.

Purée in a food processor: Put the mixture into a food processor or blender & pulse a few times to combine. Add the remaining butter & the cream & purée. Cool & refrigerate until required.

The Pastry:

Store bought or homemade? The task of making a Beef Wellimgton can be a laborious task, it is not a difficult process but there are numerous components to consider, all of which we have discussed above. The assembly is a “work in progress”, as you negotiate all the procedures to complete your mis en place.

It is a time consuming task & unless you want to prove a point & feed your ego, store bought puff pastry ticks all the boxes. Minimize the work load, your constructing Beef Wellington for goodness’s sake, there are so many different components to this recipe. Ease the load & apply the KISS principle & invest in some Pampas ½ puff

However, whether you make you make your own or take a quick trip down to Water Front & pick up a few sheets of frozen puff. It is appropriate to investigate the science behind puff pastry & how it works prior to rolling the Beef Wellington:

Puff pastry is a type of pastry that puffs up into hundreds of thin layers when baked in a hot oven. The magic behind puff pastry lies in its unique structure & the principles of moisture transformation, gluten development, high heat, & layering.

Layering: Puff pastry is made by layering dough & fat, preferably a hard compound butter specifically designed to have a high melt point. Each layer consists of a thin layer of dough sandwiched between a layer of fat.

Fat Melting: When you put puff pastry in the oven, the fat in between those dough layers melts & it will sit in the actual dough itself.

Steam Formation: Also, moisture, from the butter as well as from the dough, starts evaporating as the pastry becomes warmer. The fat prevents the dough layers from interacting with one another, so they can’t form one large structure.

Expansion: The air can easily sit in between those dough layers since they weren’t holding onto one another anyway. As a result, the space between the layer expands & you get those air pockets.

Baking: The principles of moisture transformation, gluten development, high heat, & layering all come together to create that irresistible texture & flavour.

So, the puff in the puff pastry is actually steam, & the hundreds of flaky layers are a result of the water in the butter turning into steam in the hot oven, causing the pastry to lift & separate. This is why it’s crucial that there are so many layers of butter

The Assembly:

Meat consists of natural water, muscle, connective tissue, fat & bone; our tenderloin has none of the above apart from water & plenty of it. As discussed, our tenderloin is one lean mother, & leaner cuts contain more water by weight than those with a high fat content & copious amounts of connective tissue.

Constructing a beef Wellington is not difficult, but we are faced with two major issue that will arise during the baking process. Moisture retention is paramount if we are to avoid producing a product that does not come close to what you envisaged due to excessive leakage.
We have to come up with ways to protect the pastry case from what is guaranteed to ooze from the meat, pâté & duxelles.

Where there is a problem, there is always a solution; consider the facts:

1. You will sear the tenderloin to retain its water content, but that’s all you’re going to do. At worst, you are going to sear to achieve a medium rare tenderloin, which will affective consign your very expensive tenderloin to medium well done once you have cooked the pastry case.

2. Ideally, a rare tenderloin is the objective, but this presents numerous concerns because of the high moisture level. These juices need to be contained to prevent the pastry from leaking.

The second problem is one of timing. Puff pastry takes at least half an hour to 40 minutes to properly brown & puff—more than enough time for a tenderloin to overcook.

The Moisture Barrier:

Let’s cut to the chase; the objective is to create a moisture barrier to absorb any leakage from the tenderloin, pâté & duxelles, the tenderloin contains a huge 72% of water, while the pâté & duxelles have a fat components added, pâté has both butter & cream, the duxelles have butter; all subject to leakage as heat is applied.

Traditionally, the meat was rolled in a crêpe with a shingled layer of prosciutto on top; however, though intentions were genuine, neither contained any moisture leakage with the crêpe becoming soggy & unpalatable. The prosciutto adds a great flavour profile but nothing else.

Serious Eats culinary consultants J. Kenji López-Alt suggests the following solution:

Traditionalists will cringe but where there is a better alternative to an age old concern; we would be remiss not to consider ways & means to solve this challenging problem. We may just have been offered a great alternative.

Wrapping:

The process used is similar to making a sushi roll; instead of a sushi mat, we place 2-3 layer of clingwrap on a board & then the “moisture barrier” a single layer of phyllo pastry & prosciutto on top of which we add a generous & importantly even layer of flavoursome enriched duxelles.

Time to add the well chilled & seared horseradish & mustard encrusted tenderloin to the phyllo bed of prosciutto & duxelles on top of which we place the pâté. Placing the beef at the lower edge closest to you & commence to roll.

We are layering a unique flavour profile which adds texture & complexity to the Beef Wellington; all individual components contribute both in flavour & presentation; most of which have stood the test of time since first being introduced to the English palate in honour of the first Duke of Wellington, Arthur Wellesley after defeating Napoleon Bonaparte in the Battle of Waterloo of which lasted a single day only, Sunday, 18 June 1815. “They certainly didn’t procrastinate in those days!

Wrap the Wellington as tightly as possibly in clingfilm, using several layers & twisting the ends. This step is absolutely vital, as it’s what will determine the shape of the Wellington in its final form.

This is where we now address the second problem—not overcooking the meat while finishing off the pastry properly. To solve this problem, it’s a simple as making sure that the beef is completely chilled before it gets wrapped. At this stage, the whole roll should go back into the fridge for at least half an hour, & up to a couple days, to get it thoroughly chilled.

Baking & Carving
There’s nothing worse than undercooked puff pastry—gummy & bland—to get good results, you must use a relatively high heat. This initial blast of high heat causes the moisture in the layers of butter within the pastry to suddenly expand, forcing the layers of pastry apart, & giving it its light, flaky texture.

You may think that what with our overcooked beef problem, high heat is not the way to go, but in fact, using higher heat will help cook the meat slower than a more moderate heat. How so?

Vapor makes a great insulator. That’s why wooden houses have spaces within their walls, or how a Thermos manages to conserve its temperature so well. By causing the puff pastry to quickly expand, you introduce plenty of air space within its structure, which will in turn give it better insulative properties, allowing the beef within to cook more gently.

At 218°C, a chilled tenderloin will take between 30 & 40 minutes to reach an internal temperature of 43 to 49°C for rare to medium-rare. This is precisely how long you need to properly brown your puff pastry. The benefits of science!

Classic Beef Carpaccio

Ingredients:
250g piece best-quality beef tenderloin, trimmed
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
2 tbsp toasted pine nuts
20gms capers
2 tbsp finely chopped chives
½ cup (40g) shaved parmesan
Wild rocket leaves & lemon wedges, to serve

Method:
Wrap the beef tightly in plastic wrap & freeze for 30 minutes (this will make it easier to thinly slice).

Unwrap the beef & very thinly slice, using a sharp knife or ask your butcher to prepare the Carpaccio using a meat slicer. Place the slices of beef between sheets of plastic wrap & flatten them out with a rolling pin if necessary.

Arrange 4 or 5 slices of beef on each serving plate & drizzle with oil. Season well with sea salt & freshly ground black pepper, scatter with pine nuts, capers, chives & shaved parmesan. Serve with rocket leaves & lemon wedges.

Steak Tartare

350gms Beef tenderloin, fine diced or minced, depending on preference
2 egg yolks
1 tbsp olive oil
1 tsp Worcestershire sauce
1 tsp Tabasco sauce
1 tbsp cornichon, cut brunoise
1 tbsp shallot, cut brunoise
1 tbsp capers, drained & cut brunoise
1 tsp flat leaf parsley, fresh, finely chopped.
1 tsp Dijon mustard, whole grain or French
½ tsp red pepper flakes, optional
¼ tsp kosher salt
¼ tsp cracked black pepper
1 squeeze lemon, to taste

Place the tenderloin in the freezer to firm. This allows us to slice the beef evenly for a uniform dice. When the beef is chilled, slice against the grain approximately ½ cm thickness. Julienne the slices to ½ cm thickness & lastly, make your perfect ½cm cubes by dicing the julienned slices.

Combine 1 egg yolk, olive oil, Worcestershire & Tabasco sauce in a mise en place bowl & whisk to achieve an emulsification. Add your finely diced beef tenderloin steak & mix well to ensure an even coating.

Add the beef to a ring mould & make an indentation on the top of the diced tenderloin with the back of a spoon & centre the egg yolk.

The condiments on individual spoons works extremely well, it offers clean lines & the Steak Tartare takes centre stage on the plate, it’s a nice affect. The yolk; once broken acts as a binder & adds texture to the diced tenderloin & add ins on the spoon.

Interestingly, when researching this recipe, it was necessary to investigate Larousse Gastronomique & Auguste Escoffier’s recipe for Steak Tartare, but I also wanted to expand my footprint.

I also researched Julia Child, a revered American chef, author, & television personality who is recognized for bringing French cuisine to the American public with her debut cookbook, Mastering the Art of French Cooking, & her subsequent television programs, the most notable of which was The French Chef.

Tom Aikens, a Michelin-starred chef who has made a name for himself in the culinary world working in several prestigious restaurants in London & Paris. He is known for his innovative cooking techniques & his commitment to using ethically-sourced ingredients.

Matt Moran is an Australian chef who began his career as an apprentice at La Belle Helene, one of Sydney’s best restaurants at the time, where he quickly rose to the role of head chef. He then took the helm at Manfredi before launching his first restaurant, The Paddington Inn Bistro. Moran has won numerous awards & accolades throughout his career, including a prestigious Michelin star.

Escoffier was certainly not expansive with his writings, whereas Child introduces olive oil & cognac to her Tartare, but excludes the Worcestershire & Tabasco sauces. Aikens additions from Escoffier’s recipe include chilli, tomato sauce, mayonnaise, brandy, chives & sourdough, but excludes the Worcestershire sauce, whereas Matt Moran includes anchovies, chives & toasted baguettes.

Nothing stays the same & nor should it; Auguste Escoffier died in 1935 at the age of 88; since the great man last rattled the pans & whisked his last sabayon, culinary advancements, innovations & food trends has taken tremendous leaps forward. Escoffier’s world was so different from todays. Importantly, all three chefs respect Escoffier original recipe, but not to be innovative in the kitchen would assign one to mediocrity.

Auguste Escoffier’s
Ingredients:
uncooked beef, minced or chopped
capers
chopped shallots
salt
pepper
Worcestershire sauce
Tabasco sauce
finely chopped pieces of French pickles, cornichon

Tom Aikens
Ingredients:
550g beef fillet, diced
25g banana shallot, finely chopped
40g cornichons, chopped
40g baby capers, rinsed
½ red chilli, finely chopped
80ml tomato ketchup
20g Dijon mustard
90g mayonnaise
5 drops Tabasco
14ml brandy
1 pinch chives, chopped
1 pinch parsley, chopped
1 tsp black pepper, plus extra for seasoning
1 pinch salt, plus extra for seasoning
4 egg yolks
4 slices sourdough bread
100g rocket

Julia Child
Ingredients:
1 pound beef tenderloin, trimmed of fat & gristle
2 tbsp minced shallots
1 tbsp capers, rinsed, drained, & chopped
2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley leaves
1 tbsp Dijon mustard
1 egg yolk
¼ tsp salt
1/8 tbsp freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup olive oil
1 tbsp cognac

Matt Moran
Ingredients:
350g trimmed beef fillet, diced into 5mm cubes
2 tbsp Dijon mustard
4 anchovies, finely chopped
1 tsp Worcestershire sauce, or to taste
4 very fresh egg yolks
2 eschalots, finely chopped
2 tbsp drained capers in brine, finely chopped
2 tbsp finely chopped chives
2 tbsp finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
6 cornichons, finely chopped
Tabasco, to taste
Toasted baguette slices rubbed with garlic, to serve

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